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is it hooked up backwards more then ten people have had simuler problems no one ever answers me on this ? can you please let me know? I have a feeling that becuse this is a newer product some plumbers are installing wrong lets say you are hooking one up on the wall infront of you and to the left in the corner where it just so happens the water input is comeing from so it gets hooked up this way but in truth the water input for the waterheater is on your right? do you also have low water pressure when unit is on? if so it would explain my thoughts on this where the hot water is pushed backwards through heater causeing low warter pressure and heat and in cases where there is a pump in heater leaking . thank you if you can help me with this please leave your name and I will add your name to my finding thank's again Albertis it hooked up backwards more then ten people have had simuler problems no one ever answers me on this ? can you please let me know? I have a feeling that becuse this is a newer product some plumbers are installing wrong lets say you are hooking one up on the wall infront of you and to the left in the corner where it just so happens the water input is comeing from so it gets hooked up this way but in truth the water input for the waterheater is on your right? do you also have low water pressure when unit is on? if so it would explain my thoughts on this where the hot water is pushed backwards through heater causeing low warter pressure and heat and in cases where there is a pump in heater leaking . thank you if you can help me with this please leave your name and I will add your name to my finding thank's again Albert
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If the leak is behind the handle take the handle off and tightn the packing nut, do not over tighten, as far as luke warm water is this with just one facucet on, they way these tankless water heaters work they are by gpm, gallons per min, if you have more gallons of water going thru the unit then it is designed for then it won't get hot, if your water pressure is to high going thru it will push it to fast thru the unit and won't get hot, your house pressure should be no higher then 75lbs no lower then 65lbs
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check the diverter valve. look to see if when hot water turned on the small electrical switch at the end operates. If not then a ned valve or diaphragm
check your expansion vessel is not flat.if so recharge..simple way to check press in valve on vessel if water comes out or little air recharge..if water still in vessel the diaphram in vessel has split so replace vessel?hot water relys on expansion??
the dip rod in heater may have failed. did you see any white chips in sediment while draining. if so its the dip rod, they do fail sometimes. If the water heater in your home was built between 1993 and 1996 and you are
beginning to find small pieces of plastic in your faucet aerators, shower
nozzles and washing machine supply tube, or if your water temperature is
suddenly not as warm as it used to be, the source of the problem may be your
water heater's dip tube. The purpose of a dip tube is to carry cold water to the bottom of the tank,
where it is heated for use. The defective dip tubes tend to crumble and disintegrate into the tank. Over
time, its plastic ! have a very good day !
Water heater is heating water but only luke warm water arrives at faucet. Open TP valve and confirm that hot water is available. If water at TP valve is hot, then problem might be plumbing-related, for example crossover. http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html
It sounds like your thermostat on the water heater isn't working properly. try turning it up higher and if this doesn't work I would have a service techy look at it.
Its time to replace the heating elements. 90% of the time it's going to be the bottom element, but if you're going to drain it anyway, elements are only $10.00 to $12.00 I would go ahead and replace them both. Replacing the elements is simple just follow these steps. Step 1: Turn off the power to the water heater. Step 2: Turn off the cold water valve supplying the water to the heater. step 3: Drain the water heater there are a few steps to proper draining, connect a hose to the drain port on the lower front of the heater and open the drain valve (remember its gravity drain so downhill all the way) pull up on the pop off handle to relief the pressure in the tank and to let air in so it can start draining also open the hot water valves in your tubs and showers (the more air you can get in the faster it will drain) Step 4: Undo the 2 wires connected to the heating elements and unscrew the element counter clockwise until it comes out of the tank (they make a socket type tool for removing the elements it's real cheap and can be found at any Home Depot) Step 5: Take the elements to Home Depot (or any hardware store) and find the exact replacements also get a 1/2" roll or Teflon tape. Step 6: Teflon tape the threads on the elements (with the threads facing you apply the Teflon tape clockwise) about 4 times around the threads is good. Step 7: Reinsert the elements into the holes and snug them up tight. (Clockwise) Not supper tight Step 8: Reconnect the wires to the elements they are 220 volts so there is no neutral either wire to either screw is fine. step 9: Close the drain valve a disconnect the hose make sure the pop off is closed and turn the water back on leave the tubs and showers on until the tank is filled and air quits coming out of them . Check around the elements for leaks if you see a leak simply snug it up a bit more. Step 10: Set temp to 125 or whatever you find efficient, replace element covers and turn the power back on and you're all set.
Carefully catch some water in a container from pressure relief valve (pull lever slightly) at top of tank, and see if it's up to temperature. If it's hot there, I suspect your by-pass at back of the tank, is faulty. Depending on what by-pass system your using, it may be in wrong position, blocked, or mixing hot and cold. Cold water flows into bottom of tank, and hot out the top. If any valve in between the 2 lines, close it, and make sure valves in and out of bottom and top are open. Let me know what you find, or if water from pressure relief valve is not hot either.
is it hooked up backwards more then ten people have had simuler problems no one ever answers me on this ? can you please let me know? I have a feeling that becuse this is a newer product some plumbers are installing wrong lets say you are hooking one up on the wall infront of you and to the left in the corner where it just so happens the water input is comeing from so it gets hooked up this way but in truth the water input for the waterheater is on your right? do you also have low water pressure when unit is on? if so it would explain my thoughts on this where the hot water is pushed backwards through heater causeing low warter pressure and heat and in cases where there is a pump in heater leaking . thank you if you can help me with this please leave your name and I will add your name to my finding thank's again Albert
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