Can't plat need for speed world for a straight hour

According to the user manual the unit will automatically turn off when it is within 2 degrees of the temperature it is set at.

It's internal timer settings range from 1/2 hour to 8 hours.

Optimus 4501 Instruction Manual And Owner Manual

There is no reason it should be turning off after 15 minutes if it is not within 2 degrees of the temperature of the room.

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Try removing all plates and covers and restart
Also check where you soldered for any excess solder touching anywhere on m/board or case
It is a heat problem you could try a packet of frozen food suitably covered to see if it works longer

That sure sounds like a heating (cooling) problem. If you can open the case outside, try to blow out all of the dust bunnies and creatures from other worlds. One shop I know uses a compressor for this but you can by cans of compressed air. THIS IS HIGHLY FLAMMABLE! as I found out in a small basement room when I tried to vacuum as I sprayed the dust. Have you ever seen a Kenmore cannister vac in full afterburner?

Come back inside and boot the system up with the case open. Observe whether all of the fans are working. There is one in the power supply, one more on the CPU and there may be others on the case and on the graphics card.

If any fans have failed, replace them. Check the current temperatures in the BIOS setup mode, see if they increase. See if the shut-off settings in the BIOS are too low but don't reset them too high as heat can do real damage.

I suspect dust because this may have come on gradually.

Overheating When the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermal overload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is the problem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are clogged with dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make sure the vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed air to do this.

Every time you reset the light or disconnect the battery it completely resets the system and it has to go through EVERY test again. The O2, EVAP, and Cat tests are generally the LAST THREE tests that are tested. You're not doing yourself any favors here.

Essentially what these readiness monitors are is the computer's notation that his has run the self diagnostics on each system and that the results feel into the expected results. If it is outside the expected results the computer will generally try to run the test multiple times before setting a DTC and turning on the Check Engine Light. It cannot set the status to "Ready" until it has a successful test within expected results; sometimes multiple successful tests. Sometimes, the tests need to run at different speeds - so the vehicle has to be driven not only at freeway speeds, but also city speeds for the tests to complete properly.

The O2 test MUST complete before the Catalyst test can run. The EVAP test generally requires that you have your fuel level at between 1/4 and 3/4 and that the vehicle sit undisturbed after being driven for a period of time for no less than 8 hours in order to run the EVAP test.

The same can be said for the O2 test sometimes because the computer needs to test the O2 sensors reaction to heating up and cooling down. Eventually they will all complete - unless there is an issue. I have seen where a component was in the process of going out and the computer was getting both GOOD and BAD results when running the tests. As a result it wouldn't set ready status because it wasn't getting the concurrent GOOD test results.

As a Texas Recognized Emissions Repair Facility - my shop sees this kind of stuff all the time.

Good Luck.

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try taking off the face plat and clean it or it might be your tv

Have a fuel pressure test done, that will show if the fuel pump is weak, or the fuel pressure regulator is faulty.

the problem may be due to dry soldering in the power supply stage if it was with the lamp there would be red or green light showing the presence of the power to the tv after making it own some of the components get hot and it will make the the soldering point conectionless and after some time the heat sink get cooled and the soldering point gets connected and u will see the picture again it is a simple problem if u have a soldering iron u make it hot and re solder all the components in the first part of the circuit board and the problem if rectified