Rheem pilotless ignition

Call WWGrainger on this retrofit. In my opinion, after a pilot kit and electronic board, the cost is near a new pilotless heater unit. Call them.

Probably clogged air intake, caused overheating, and TRD glass vial broke:
Specific resources are available:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html

Rheem TRD:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-Rheem-TRD.html

Forum:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Gene
h

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following link for general steps how to take apart combustion parts:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermocouple.html

2) Copy following link for troubleshoot-igniter pdfs:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html

3) Newest gas water heaters require replacing whole combustion assembly.
Older models can be taken apart and igniter replaced separately.

4) Unfortunately Rheem does not post service manuals, or show basic service steps in their product manuals. Parts vary by model number

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Problem is not thermocouple:
Thermocouple should be finger-tight plus 1/4 turn
Overtightening will short thermocouple against gas control valve, and solenoid switch will not open, and no gas will reach pilot once red button is released.
Tip of thermocouple has to sit in the pilot flame.
If pilot flame will stay on, then thermocouple is good.

Problem is not solenoid switch.
The gas control valve solenoid opens and closes gas supply to gas control valve.
On mechanical gas control valve, when you push down the red button to light pilot, then you are opening the solenoid and letting gas flow into gas control valve.
When heat is applied to thermocouple, a small electric current travels to gas control valve, and this causes solenoid to stay open.
If you extinguish pilot, then no current travels to gas control, and solenoid clicks off.
You can hear it click, and this is how you test it.
However, since you are getting gas to pilot light, then the solenoid is not the problem.

This leaves 4 possible problems:
1) Bad gas control valve thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-replace-water-heater-gas-valve.pdf
2) Inadequate gas pressure. Call gas company.
3) Dirty combustion parts. Clean the burner with wire brush and water.
4) Clogged air intake on FV water heaters: Rheem FV gas water heaters have glass vial that will break if combustion is slowed by clogged air intake.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-Rheem-TRD.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If thermocouple is from ordinary tank-type water heater, then it is a generic part with different lengths 15" 17" 21" 24" 30" available at hardware of home center.
I suggest reading manual for installation information, advisories, and required maintenance.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-Ruud-water-heater-parts-guide.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html#clean

There are good utube videos on replacing thermocouple.
Tip of thermocouple has to be positioned in the pilot flame.
The heat on tip of thermocouple causes millivolts of electric current that travel back to the gas control valve and the electrical signal causes gas control valve to keep gas flowing down the pilot tube to the pilot light.
If pilot light blows out or if pilot tube is clogged and needs to be cleaned, or if gas valve has gone bad, then tip of thermocouple cools down and electric signal back to gas control valve causes gas control valve to shut off gas going to pilot.

When attaching thermocouple to gas control valve, it is finger tightened.
Be careful and do not cross-thread thermocouple. Just use your fingers to start the nut.
Finger-tighten thermocouple and then add 1/4 turn using small wrench.
The end of thermocouple has a small piece of insulation that isolates the electric current from body of gas control valve. If thermocouple is overtightened, the insulation is crushed, and electrical current millivolts short out and no signal reaches gas control valve, so gas control valve keeps gas turned off to pilot tube.

If this is a tankless water heater, then open following link with troubleshooting resources and contact information for Rheem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Well you might have a pinhole leak than periodically puts out pilot light. Or you might have a bad thermocouple. Thermocouple is inexpensive and easy replacement.

does the igniter spark!! if no its probably the igniter.

I know it may sound strange but check to make sure the gas cut-off valve is turned parallel with the gas pipe. If its open, you may have a failed fan proof switch. air pressure from draft induced blower causes the switch to click and open the main gas valve. if this this switch doesn't click(close contacts) the maing as valve will not open to ignite the burners. its a sequence of events that a furnace goes through before it ignites the burner for heat.

electronic ignition or Thermocouple?

Thermocouple - replace it.

Electronic - anyone's guess

Sounds like a bad thermocouple. This part sends a millivolt signal to keep the gas valve open but shuts it off when it cools - or if something goes wrong with the ignighter - to prevent fires. It's easy to replace and not super expensive. See your local Rheem dealer.