Little inline resistor does not pass current

There are a few potential reasons why your KitchenAid slow cooker might not be powering up. Here are a few things you can try:

1. Check the power outlet: Make sure that the outlet you are using is working and that the slow cooker is plugged in securely.
2. Check the power cord: Inspect the power cord for any visible damage, such as frayed or exposed wires. If you see any damage, the cord may need to be replaced.
3. Check the control panel: Make sure that the control panel is functioning properly and that the slow cooker is set to "ON."
4. Check the fuse: Some slow cookers have a fuse that can blow if the appliance is overloaded. If your slow cooker has a fuse, you may need to replace it.

If these troubleshooting steps do not resolve the issue, you may want to contact KitchenAid for further assistance. They may be able to provide additional troubleshooting tips or arrange for service.

Yes you should be able to replace this cord.
Start by a/ Getting the size of cord required, is it 1.5 or 2.5mm conductor size. Check the manufacturers rating plate to see wattage/power rating of the cooker.
b/ Check the cord, is it heat resisting type??
c/ Cut a piece off and take it to local diy electrical shop to get correct rating and type.
d/ ALWAYS SWITCH OFF BEFORE CHECKING ANYTHING.

I had no power on my cepc800. Since parts are not available I had my husband tear it apart. If you are not electrically inclined don't try it....the problem in mine was a high temp resistor, which was bad. The problem was solved with a $2.50 resistor from our local electronics store.

SEND ME A PICTURE OF THE CONNECTION WHERE THE CORD PLUGS INTO THE COOKER,I COULD HAVE ONE,

I am currently attempting to do that myself. You need to separate the liner from the outside part. Using a pair of pliers, loosen the round nuts (found on the bottom) holding the unit together & separate. You'll find that the unit won't come completely apart because of the wiring. There is a heating band, held together by a spring, around the inner liner. Remove the spring to release the band. This should allow you to remove the inner liner & give you access to the wiring. At this point, you'll need to clip the appliance cord by the little wire nuts. The hardest part will be getting the cord out; there is a strain relief grommet that holds the cord in place and prevents it from being cut by the sheet metal where the cord goes through. I broke this strain relief on my crockpot and am currently looking for a replacement. Once I find a cord relief, I should be able to reconnect the wiring, the heating band and assemble the unit. Be careful not to cut yourself on the sheet metal!

I think E2 means open circuit in thermocouple in center of bottom. E4 means no contact on pressure sensing switch at edge of bottom. Mine had E4 error. Took out switch and used fine sandpaper to clean contact points. Now it works fine.
Remove 3 screws in bottom. Remove bottom cover by turning it ~1/4" to clear tabs. Remove switch at edge of bottom with two blue wires going to it. Clean contacts and replace.

I found this one on eBay but do not know if it will fit your machine. It is a little less expensive and is used. Replacement parts are always expensive but less than buying a whole new machine...much less it keeps it out of the landfills. http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-WEST-BEND-SLOW-SLO-COOKER-REPLACEMENT-CORD_W0QQitemZ320494123773QQcmdZViewItemQQptZSmall_Kitchen_Appliances_US?hash=item4a9ef03afd

I believe the power cord is just like the power cord to a desktop computer. You can buy one at Best Buy

There is a website that carries cords for "All Round 4qt. Cookers" Price $3.99 from Focus Electrics.

The link is below:

http//www.focuselectrics.com/catalog.cfm?dest=dir&linkid=101&linkon=catagory