I recently had new service installed. 200 amp load center at the top of my stairs, and a QOM2E2200NRB 200 amp enclosed breaker next to the meter socket. Idiot electrician bonded the neutral in the load center instead of the main disconnect. I removed the bonding screw from the load center breaker box, but the spot in the disconnect outside is not threaded to accept a bonding screw.? Anyone know if I am missing something here, or how to get this bonding screw in the disconnect? Thanks for any help!

For the neutral buss bar, a bonding screw goes through the buss bar into the box. Same for the ground buss bar. Usually, neutral does not meet ground until the meter, so there may only be a bonding screw for the ground buss bar. Look carefully, check with electricians.

A 200 amp circuit breaker has a large spring to assist in rapid opening and closing a load of this size to minimize damaging arcing every time is it operated under electrical load

The larger the circuit breaker is and the more poles (1, 2 or 3) that are being opened / closed; the more force it will require to operate - both by hand or when tripping. Compare the tension or force you need to apply to a similar sized circuit breaker at Home Depot, etc.

The troubling issue about this for me is the fact that the 200 amp service disconnect / main is tripping. This is an indication of an overloaded panel / circuit. I usually see individual circuits that trip in a panel - but often find the that main breaker has only 20% - 60% of its rating on it at any given time. If you're tripping a 200 amp service disconnect / main breaker repeatedly - something has got to give - and eventually the circuit breaker will fail. That may be where you are now with this breaker. You may be in need of a service upgrade (if it is the service disconnect) as clearly, you have out grown the 200 amp size one you currently have or need add a new sub-panel to ease the load that this 200 amp main is trying to supply now.

Either way, you should call a reputable electrical contractor to have your service / sub-panel evaluated very soon. Good luck!

There seem to be several questions mingled in with those 2 questions.

1) Amps can go either way

2) Breakers trip when heat exceeds certain level. Heat is caused by amps.

3) You want to add a subpanel in garage.
I do not know the code in your area for installing a subpanel.
Your plan will work by connecting 6 gauge wire to main breaker, and new 60 amp breaker will protect wires between main box and subpanel.
Remember, wires going into main breaker cannot be turned off without pulling meter.
Some areas require license to pull meter.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

4) To work around license and meter-pull, simply replace a 240V breaker in main panel with your new 60 amp breaker.
Then move breakers around to match new set-up.
New subpanel can accommodate two new 240V breakers and one new 120 Breaker
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-a-subpanel.html

5) 6 gauge wire is correct for 60 amp breaker.

6) I'm not sure what you mean by the box rails?

7) Do you need more amperage on main service?
This means adding a larger service panel with 150 Watt or 200 Watt main breaker.
Some areas require service upgrade when remodeling or adding circuits.

8) How to figure total amp draw at your house.
Add up total watts being used.
For example you have 1/2 Hp motor
754 watts per Hp
1/2 Hp = 377Watts
Volts x Amps = Watts
Amps = Watts divided by Volts.
377 Watts divided by 240Volts = 1.57 amps (plus a bit more amperage when motor starts)
40 watt light bulb divided by 120Volts = .33 amps
Double oven has label located inside door that shows upper and lower wattage.
Dishwasher, dryer, big screen TV, satellite receiver all have labels that show wattage.
Water heater has label that shows wattage of each element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

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Usually this is a defective breaker, possibly caused by water intrusion into the panel. This is NOT a do it yourselfer job -- refer this to a professional who knows what they're doing. The meter base needs to be pulled to cut the power to repair it and you are dealing with power that has virtually no fuse or breaker protecting it. If that sounds dangerous, there's a good reason -- it is. I get unnerved doing these. I hope I've helped you, though maybe not the answer you were hoping for.

It is always good to install a large enough wire where the maximum load can be drawn plus a little extra for safety. 7 gauge wire will do, if it was mine I would use 6 gauge wire. If the length is over 20 feet but not longer than 80 feet go to the next larger size wire.

I'm assuming since it's a Homeline panel you're using a HOM2100 breaker. If it stripping then you must have a short circuit in your 100A circuit, or the breaker is defective. Disconnect your load from the breaker, and turn main on. Be sure you have the correct load conductors connected to the breakers. Typically red and black on the breaker, white on neutral bar. Bare to ground bar

First the part number QOC20U100F is a flush mount panel cover. The panel you have is most likely a :QO116M100. No you cannot replace the breaker as the bus in the panel is only rated for 100A. In addition I believe this is a 20CKT panel. If you're gonig to a 200A service you'd probably want more spaces than that. Home Depot and Lowes both carry 200A panels with starter set of breakers at reasonable price. The QO panels are a bit better than the Homeline
Here is a link to manual for their panels. :
http://static.schneider-electric.us/assets/DIGEST/load-centers.pdf

Hi .. If the load center is next to the main panel you can use #2 copper or #1aught aluminum. You need to use 4 wires .. two hot, neutral, and ground. And in your load center you will need a 125amp main breaker and you will need to keep the neutral bus separate from the box, do not use the bonding screw. You will then need to install a ground bar to the back of the box for the ground wires connection.
any thoughts, questions.?

Before you contemplate doing this I would check to see if the 200 amp wiring to your home can accommodate 300 amps. If not, I would not touch it. If it can then you can do it ever so carefully to make sure you do not light yourself up! I would kill your main 200 amp breaker and then tap into each existing branch a tap that will take at least 50 amps for each of the two legs on your new 100 amp breaker box. Good luck

Yes the maximum size branch circuit breaker that will fit in a residential load center is 100 amps. I would recommend that you calculate the amount of power that you need the sub panel to handle, then add any additional loads you may need in the future. Hopefully this is less than 100 amps. I would recommend that you check with your local electrical inspector to make sure your installation meets all local and national codes before proceeding with the install.