Heating elements model 81v52dt-c - Rheem 30 GAL ELEC SHORT Water Heater 6YR SC 82SV302

The most common heating elements in an electric wtr htr are 120v 4500 watt elements. There are usually two of them. The bottom element heats about 80% of the water, and the top one heats the remaining 20% after the bottom stat is satisfied. The info you are looking for is on the rating plate of the heater. Good luck!

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-element.html

Gene

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The heating elements in most electric heaters for water are sequential. That means that both are not on at the same time in some cases. There are individual thermostats for each set of heating elements. So you should check the integrity of both the heating elements with a meter and the thermostats.

1) Test elements,and if elements are good, replace both thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

2) Test across top two screws on upper thermostat for 240Volts.
If this test shows 240V, then no more voltage testing is needed.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-water-heater-thermostats-work.html#electric

3) Add comment Feb 2013 and say where you are so far

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Tank must be full of water of elements will burn out.
Full list of troubleshooting steps:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html#new

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Anode rods are generic and available from local plumbing supply store or internet.
Just cut it off so it drops into the tank without touching the bottom or sediment on the bottom.
If there is not enough room above the tank to install new rod, then buy anode rod with sausage links.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Open following link for Rheem parts: page 7 shows anode rods
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Rheem-parts-list.pdf

If you mean the safety valve, replace it. They're only a few dollars.

Under the top cover on the side of your water heater, cover's a thermostat that has a red reset button that may be tripped. Press it to reset.
If you have access to a wire tester to test electricity coming into water heater. Check your breaker box for a tripped breaker and power to element's..

Below is a link with information about water heater's that will be helpful to you.
http://www.water-heater-repair-guide.com/waterheaterthermostat.html

http://www.water-heater-repair-guide.com/electricwaterheatertroubleshooting.html

There should be a flip flop circuit in your heater that switches between the two heaters. I don't think they both heat at the same time. Check the rating on the indivitual heat element then compare that with the data printed on the heater RE: maximum WATT rating.

Now then, what did you miss - I'm thinking you missed the ohm reading. You measured 220 Volts but you did not check to see if the element is burned out or not. Move your meter to OHM and take a measurement with the power turned off. If the reading is "open" the element is buned out. If you get some reading beside 'open' the element is probably able to carry current.

Have you drained the sediment from your heater recently?

All the way up is a dangerous setting by the way. I suspect you know this.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Hello, The cold water dip tube is busted.How old is the unit?A plumber can make a new one but might not be cost effective.