Unplug the AC adapter (Charger) from power. Unplug the AC adapter from the laptop.
Remove the Battery.
Press the Power On button in, and hold it in for a count of 10 seconds.
(And I mean 10. Count, 1001,..1002,..1003,..etc)
Reinstall the Battery. Plug the AC adapter back in. Plug the AC adapter into power.
(ALWAYS plug the AC adapter into the laptop FIRST, then plug the AC adapter into power.
Why?
To avoid a voltage spike at the laptop)
WAIT 1 minute, turn the laptop on.
Still no?
Then the AC adapter needs to be checked, to see if it is putting out the correct voltage.
Don't know, Model Number wasn't stated.
AC adapter checks out, then it is on to the DC Power Jack.
The jack on the laptop (DC_IN) that the AC adapter plugs into.
What style?
Don't know the Model Number wasn't stated.
DC Power Jack checks out, then I suggest you have a problem with a Power MOSFET,
http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04/important-parts-on-dv6000-and-dv9000.html
(Model Number is on the Bottom of the laptop. Plus, this IS a Dell, right?)
Post back in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette
The Dell Inspiron 17R that you have is just one of the Inspiron 17R series of Notebook PC's. (Model Number is on the Bottom of the laptop) Yours for example could be a 17R-5720, or 17R-5721, or 17R-N7110, or 17R SE 7720. Moving on..........In writing up this solution made me come to a pause.......How old is this laptop? So far due to looking at reviews, it looks like it came out in late September 2012. How long have you had it may I ask? Point? If this thing less than a year old? Moving on, but will come back to this after you post. The battery's flat. Left unplugged from power. have you plugged the AC adapter (Charger) into it, and left on for 24 hours? Let's see if there is a difference, then. Past this point it's time to get out your tools. Multimeter is the first one. If you do not have one, an economical model runs $5 to $12 here in the States. Analog is fine, but you can use digital too. (I prefer Analog for most jobs. Beeper for continuity with a digital model is fine, in it's place, but I like to see the needle of an Analog multimeter better) Auto parts stores have them. (A wee pricey though) I've seen them on checkout aisle racks in major discount stores. Need to test the Voltage coming out of the AC adapter. AC adapter isn't workin', you ain't going anywhere. Output voltage is 19.5 Volts DC. (The dangerous AC Voltage is kept within the AC adapter. 100 to 240 Volts AC, depending on what country you're in. Cleveland, Ohio? 120 Volts AC) Replacement AC adapter example shows me it has the usual plug style, that plugs into the laptop,http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Char...
The onput plug from the AC adapter has a hole in the center, and a metal cylindrical shell on the outside. The Center Hole is where the Positive (Red) probe of the multimeter goes. The cylindrical metal shell is where the Negative (Black) probe lead of the multimeter goes. [Look at Red hole on multimeter. If more than one, the Positive (Red) probe lead plugs into the one, with DC Voltage, or DCV next to it. Negative (Black) probe lead only has one hole on multimeter. Set the Function knob to DC Voltage. [DCV or may just be symbol, of a dotted line over a solid line ] If more than one DC Voltage scale for the multimeter Function knob, set to the 0 - 50 Volts scale) AC adapter is putting out close to 19.5 Volts DC? (19 is OK) Then it's on to the DC Power Jack.
Apparently I need to fire my proofreader! "The INPUT plug from the AC adapter............" (WAIT O_O! That's me!) Also; while testing the output voltage of the AC adapter, have an assistant gently wiggle the AC cord, (Power cord), and then the cable FROM AC adapter TO laptop. Any fluctuation in the reading on the multimeter, suggests you have a broken wire in one of those cables. AC adapter, and power cord/cable checks out? Then it's on to the DC Power Jack. The DC Power Jack is the jack that you plug the AC adapter into. Remove the Battery. Use the eraser end of a No.2 pencil, or equivalent; and see if you can gently move the Center Pin of that jack around. ANY perceptible movement means a bad DC Power Jack. HOWEVER, we are talking JUST about the center pin. The DC Power Jack is attached to wires in a harness, and the wires end in a plug. To replace you just unplug it from the motherboard, instead of having to Unsolder it off of the motherboard. It is now called a DC Power Harness.
The DC Power Jack itself resides in a 'Channel' formed in the outside edge of the Base Cover. It may be possible for a tiny bit of movement from the outside of the jack; but NOT the Center Pin. DC Power Jack center pin checks out, I think we need to lean more towards a Power MOSFET on the motherboard is out. Using the HP Pavilion dv6000, and Pavilion dv9000 series of Notebook PC's, for an example,http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04... This is the download page to the free Service Manual,http://www.dell.com/support/troubleshoot... (Again, your laptop is just one of the Inspiron 17R series. So is this laptop. The Service Manual is just based on the Model Series, not the Model Number) Click on the blue -> Manuals & Documentation, tab. Under the blue -> Select a different product Owner's Manual (3721KB) It IS the Service Manual. If you open to repair, you're going to need an ESD wrist strap. (Electro Static Discharge) Average cost is $3 to $6. Will guide in suggesting a ground point, to attach the alligator clip to.
wHeRe aRe my manners? You're welcome cleveland266, lol! Computer geek here you know, and I get wrapped up in the problem, ha! Just wanted to politely ask; where are we so far? (Testing of laptop)
That is; what tests/diagnosis have you performed so far? If no multimeter available, may I suggest taking it down to the nearest small computer shop, and have the resident tech check it? Should only be a couple of bucks. No more? GET OUTTA' THERE! That's no computer repair shop, just a bunch of parts swappers. How about the center pin on the DC Power Jack. Stuff too hard to follow? Post back what you need clarification on.
Supposed to be, -> No,....MORE? Get outta' there!
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SOURCE: dead laptop
remove battery and use the ac try it then, if that doesn't work remove everything possible cdrom,memory,battery,pc cards and try it again, if still fails try wiggling the ac cord at the input
SOURCE: AC Power and Battery Problem.....
Sounds like the battery or possibly the charging circits themselves are the problem. Can you try turning on the laptop with just the power cord in and no battery?
SOURCE: I have a toshiba laptop
Hi,
certain laptops rely on a battery being present.
Or a battery that holds charge.
i,d suggest refering to the user manual, or go on-line to the manufacturers website.
the laptop may be in hibernation/sleep mode. or require a hard reset.
visit toshibas support site for further details and faqs ( frequently asked questions )
Mike @ compurepair.
SOURCE: Power light shuts off after only 3 seconds
First remove power from the computer before attempting to remove any internal device.Remove the battery the memory and the power supply.Press the power button and hold for twenty seconds.Once done replace the removed items and try again.If no go try removing the memory only if your computer beeps then you have bad memory,try one stick at a time.Failing this *********** board is bad.
Good Luck
SOURCE: laptop battery went dean charged up pc stioll not
With power off and unplug from the power supply, remove battery pack from your laptop for a few minutes to force it to 'hard' reset.
Hope it works for you!
Try again and let me know.
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Usually answered in minutes!
its an inspiron 17r. that didnt work joe. but, i do appreciate the help.
Just a start cleveland266, just a start. Will post additional need info now, in a Comment under my solution.
Wow, I hope someone comes along to help with sentence structure, lol! WHAT is that above?
It's an Inspiron 17R 5721. I've tried almost all of the possible troubleshooting..
All failing miserably. Thanks Joe for the help thus far.
Inspiron 17R (N7010) that is
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