The cord on my professional Luxe has a short near the handle.

So many people make a copy of that iron maybe a local repair shop for tefal, black n decker, or another can do it. Taking things apart sometimes is not worth the trouble of putting back together. sometimes it requires special tools. call around first before you try it yourself

you have a open circuit that occurs due to a wire loose at the plug end or a loose connection within the iron. a break in the cable will also display the systems you discribe. check for loose connections before you decide to replace the cable. by keeping the cable stationery when the iron is on at the plug end check wether it switches off when you move the cable near the plug end.if it switches off the loose wire is in the plug if it does not the try the moving the cable nearer the Iron end.

Hi am having the same problem can it be fixed

any auto parts store with selling tools should have the tool you need take the item down and have them look at it so they can get you the right one.
hope this helps

When you say short, it means to most people that you have intermittant connection in the cord, and one would say, replace it with the same or better type cord. If you are good at soldering, wire splicing and crimping, it should be fairly easy to separate the base using Security Torx Bits (i.e. tamper resistant screws are used), and a bit of judicious patience. Once appart, if they use crimped or solder connections you can cut, splice and crimp as needed. Your cord will be a bit shorter and you will have to reindex the strain relief service loop, but it should be painless. If you are not confident working with UL listed safe equipment (your loved ones will be using this appliance) you can get it serviced here:

California Electric Service in Concord CA (it is the only Rowenta repair station in California) go to either of the following addresses:
their website is: http://www.californiaelectricservice.com/
or tech service: [email protected]

OK... quick disclaimer. Me = not responsible if you break your iron, set something on fire or electrocute yourself. If you're not sure what you're doing, find a qualified person to help or trash the iron. Getting hurt isn't worh a $40 iron.

That said, mine had the same issue... in my case, was a break in the cord.

Before you do anything that follows, don't forget to drain the iron. You'll have a big mess if you don't. :)

Accessing the cord connections requires a security screwdriver. You can buy one at a hardware or electronics repair store. OR if you're chep like me, make one yourself by using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a notch in a thinner blade, flat blade screwdriver. Any cheap flatblade screwdriver will do (eye protection recommended since you'll be grinding metal).

Unscrew the two screws in the back. Once removed, the colored plastic cover can be removed by inserting a screwdriver near the tabs that hold the cover in place and prying a bit.

Removing the inner cover is a little trickier.

The handle under the power indicator light (the red one) has an upper and lower section. Squeeze the lower portion of the handle directly beneath the light pretty firmly. You'll notice a slight separation between the back section and the handle. The back section is what you'll remove. I removed mine by squeezing the handle and pulling the power cord straight backward (I know that sounds odd, but it was the easiest way to get some leverage, plus it's already broken, remember???) Don't pull super hard, but firmly enough to separate the back panel from the back of the iron.

Once the back cover is removed, it's a pretty simple cord change. As there are a few more wires than some people are accustomed to, I recommend writing down the wire combos so you can reattach everything as it was.

If you have difficulty removing the crimped wire nuts (the plastic covers), you can use a pair of pliers to squeeze opposite the crimp and they'll open up enough to allow the wires to slide out.

From there, reassemble... opposite of the disassembly order.

Mine worked perfectly after this quick fix. Hope yours does too. Good luck and be safe!

They are called TORX screws. You need a torx set of drivers.

I drilled out the nubs in the center of the screws. removed the screws, and took off the back plate. The problem is that the cord seems to be abraiding when it swivels, and eventually wears thru. It seems like a fire hazard and should be looked into by Rowena. Anyway, I cut out the damaged cord and reattached it. Problem fixed..

Hi,
Try using different water...

Here is a tip that will help you with that problem...

My Steam Iron is Leaking Water
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5301301-steam_iron_leaking_water

heatman101

Special screw called "Torx tamper proof" call 925 8271011 and order "Rowenta tool" $10.00 plus shipping-this place also sells Rowenta parts