LUTRON DIMMER THERE IS 3 LOW VOLTAGE LIGHTS HOOKED UP TO THIS DIMMER AND THEY ARE THE LITTLE PUCK LIGHTS..THEY WORK JUST FINE UNTIL YOU TURN THEM UP TO FULL POWER AND THEN THE LIGHTS FLICKER..GET DIMMER AND THEN BRIGHTER..TRIED DIFFERENT DIMMER AND THEY DID THE SAME THING..ANY IDEAS AS TO WHAT MAY BE WRONG? USING THE MAESTRO MODEL

Let's start whittling away some of the information...

First of all, the ZP260QE is from Lightolier,so you may want to give their tech support center a call.
Secondly, ignore the continuity tests, they tell you nothing. Continuity on the secondary is expected because you're on the output of a "true" transformer, which will look like a short on a DC-supplied continuity test. The input to an ELECTRONIC transformers is a switching power supply, which will not look like anything when supplied by a DC voltage/current during a continuity test. Those test results appear normal to me. The +/- 60 also makes sense, if you've measuring voltages on the output of a dimmer, the impedance of the dimmer's off-state and the impedence of the multi-meter makes for some screwy readings that don't always make sense.

Most dimmers rated for electronic low-voltage have protection circuitry built within them to make sure they're not overloaded. Normal incandescent dimmers will just get warmer than usual, these guys should shut down - perhaps that's what you're seeing.

My two suspiciions are either (a) the additional pendent light, combined with the existing track lights, tripped the overload protection, or (b) when you added the pendent light, you got too much of a current inrush that shorted out the components within the dimmer.

It is neither - it is rated for incandescent lamps only. It sounds like someone suggested that your puck ligths are being controlled by electronic low-voltage transformers, in which case, if you wanted to stick to the Skylark family, should be an SELV-300P-WH.

If you're not sure about any of this, I suggest calling Lutron's tech support line. It's at 1-800-523-9466, they're available 24/7, and can double-check the recommendation.

The switch has gon bad on you. You need to replace the dimmer switch

If each fixture has an individual transformer, the chace is that they are electronic (about the size of a matchbox car) If so, you have the wrong dimmer installed. You will need to install a MAELV (Electronic Low Voltage) Dimmer. The regular dimmers are set up for Magnetic Low Voltage and incandescent which work differently. http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/362219.pdf

Here is a link to the difference in how they work. Also, if they are a Low Wattage light like an LED, the dimmer may not have enough resistance to bleed off the excess voltage. The MAW-600 has a minimum load of either 25 or 40 watts. If you are operating LED's you may also need a Low Wattage Interface to act as a simulated load that wires in series with your lights. (lut-lbx)

If it gets too anoying until you get the proper dimmer, you can switch the Air Gap switch at the bottom to the off position. This completely disconnects the power to the load side of the dimmer.

Good Luck

Possible power supply problem--low voltage from master unit or dead batteries at each switch. Good luck!

If each pendant has an individual transformer that is about the size of a hotwheel then you need a dimmer specifically for ELECTRONIC LOW VOLTAGE. A lot of electricians don't know that the different types of lights require different dimmers. Most store bought dimmers are for incandescent lights only, and some nicer dimmers like the Lutron Maestro's are rated for incandescent or MAGNETIC Low Voltage which require a different Sin wave interuption. I don't know that leviton makes a dimmer in that style for Electronic Low Voltage. You could install a Lutron DVELV300P-Wh, but that is a Decora opening. http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/WorkArea/downloadasset.aspx?id=25437
Here is a link to explain the difference in how the dimmer needs to work. Good luck!

You will need to return the 3-way dimmer and get a single pole dimmer, as the Lutron Skylark series is suspectible to failure if connected to a live circuit first, or misconnected at intial installation. As an electrician, I ceased using these dimmers years ago, due to the rash of call-backs by customers and went with Leviton togglers and have had excellent results.

If you purchased it at a 'big box' store, they will accept the return as a defective item, as they have national agreements with their suppliers to accept customer returns. Just tell them it didn't work and you want a store credit, you can then purchase the lower priced single pole dimmer you need and save some money in the process too.

Hope you find this Very Helpful - best regards!

The short blew the Lutron. Replace it.

What is the dimmer rated for? Your load on the track appears to be 200 watts. A standard dimmer will burn out, you need to look on the dimmer to see what it is rated for. Did it run hot with the dimmer before you had this problem? They make dimmers for higher wattage that will do the job for you.

Consider using a MAELV-600 and a MA-R. The MAELV is rated for 600W Electronic Low-Voltage. The MAELV will require a neutral wire connection.

www.lutron.com/maestro