Have a 70,000btu ready heater. changed ignitor & pump set press.

Heater may be defective and factor repair is the answer.

Check the wires for good connections. If the connections are good, then check the adjustment for the ignitor (sparker or glowplug).

These units have a air pump on the back of the fan motor. Has anyone messed with the settings? The pump usually runs off of 5 to 6 lbs. of pump pressure. This is what controls the fuel flow that is sprayed out of the fuel injector. This unit also should have a photo eye for flame out control. It is positioned near the ignitor looking though a hole in the combustion chamber. Make sure it is clean and looking in the hole. Make sure your ignitor is working also.

I cleaned the sensor that was at the the right further most burner on my Goodman and it worked. got the answer to my problem here at fixya. My burner flame only lasted 5 secs before it shut off. Thanks to all who took the time to send me a response.

Check the inline fuel filter. Take off side cover to find.Check pump pressure at back of motor at solid plastic pipe plug

I just solved this about an hour ago. It's the connection from the circuit board to the ignitor. The same thing happened to me that it ran a long time and then it wouldn't. At some point it loses spark. The large wire from the board to thee= ignitor is the culprit. Take the ignitor out and press the two electrodes to about 1/4"-3/8max. Clean the surface plate where it meets the heater and also clean the brass piece on the othe end. Then clean the brass piece on the circuit board. Slide the 2 boots down a little and expose the receptacles. Press them a little with pliers, put them on their respective connections and then slide the boots back on. It started right up and has been running since! This after I bought a new gas valve $178! Let me know if this does it for you.

If...the air pump pressure is right, the ignitor glows, the fuel is hitting the ignitor, then the unit will have combustion......unless.....

1. there is an air leak on the pressure line
2. there is a vacuum leak on the fuel line
3. there is a leak at the nozzle adapter
4. there is a restriction either in the nozzle or the fuel filter
5. the nozzle is worn and is spraying fuel rather than fogging fuel

the motor is going bad. I would like to help you more but really the only thing you can do is replace it and your problem will be solved.

FOUND THAT THE FUEL HOSE AND AIR PUMP HOSE HAD BEEN REVERSED AT THE NOZZLE-PUMP HOSE NEEDS TO BE CLOSEST TO THE BLOWER HOUSING-I USED A VAC GAUGE TO TEST THE FUEL LINE-WHILE THE AIR PUMP WAS RUNNING-NO VAC-REVERSED LINES AND STARTED UNIT-ADJUSTED AIR PRESSURE-ALL IS WELL

John- the ignitor does not stay on for the duration of the running time. It only stays on for the first 5 seconds. This is long enough for the flame to ignite and perpetuate itself, assuming the fuel delivery system is up-to-par. The photocell monitors the flame color and if the flame becomes off-color then the photocell tells the control board to shut the unit down. Naturally, too rich or too lean affects flame color.

Now, I'm confused by your description "the heater cycles 3 times". Tell me more.

I'm glad to see that you checked the pump pressure. Have you used soapy water to check for air leaks all the way to the nozzle? A leak in the airline, fuel line, or a crack in the nozzle adapter will cause no fuel delivery, or reduced fuel delivery as well as reduced atomization of the fuel - all of which can cause a lack of combustion. A restricted fuel filter will cause starvation.

Eliminate all possibilities of a fuel delivery problem before you start blaming electronics because there is not much way to test the board or the photocell successfully without DESA's diagnostic tool. Unfortunately, replacement of the componants is cheaper than the tool.