Is there an easy method of replacing the screen spring

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew who is
a full time mechanic uses most of the times, and all mechanics look up to manuals. It's very easy Here's the website he bought it from. www.reliable-store.com

The usual method of accessing the belt is to remove the entire fron panel (including door). It is usually easy to remove the panel by removing a couple of screws at the top and pulling up and out on the panel. The belt can be reached from the front. All dryer belts have a spring loaded tensioner on the belt. Check the tensioner as belts hardly ever come off unless the tensioner spring breaks.

Rear is spring on strut design, not a difficult job, purchase a set of ready install assemblies from ebay, and install yourself, requires removal of rear seat to access the upper mounting nuts. This is cheapest and easiest method, replacing just springs is more involved and dangerous if you aren't sure of what you are doing

Valve stem seals replacement...

Remove cylinder head, remove valve springs with a spring compresser.
Seal is just a rubber boot that you lubricate and slide over the end of the valve guide.Replace valve springs,refit head with new gasket.
Refit camshaft and re-time...
How easy this is depends on previous mechanical experience and availability of tools
If you are confident enough with refitting and timing the camshaft and have access to a torque wrench and valve spring compresser then this is a pretty simple job.

Drain pump screen is clogged. If its makeing a bad grinding sound the pump will need to be replaced. Otherwise disasembly of the machine is required to access pump area to clean out screen. Dextrous people can probaly do this from the back or underneath unit. Its difficult and I don't recomend it to beginers or people who arn't handy. Easiest/prefered method: (This is the one I use.)

Method A units that have a bottom access panel. ie: front panel not one seamless peice.

-unplug unit
-lean back against wall for easy access.
-remove two #2 square screws form access panel.
-Loosen clamp holding hose to tub. (Big black one around 2" in diameter.)
-remove and clean screen.
-reassemble machine and test pump operation.

Method B units the have seamless front panel.

-unplug unit
-remove top. 3 screws @ back, slide top away from machine to remove.
-remove 2 screws holding console onto chasis.
-remove disp
-remove 3 screws @ and behind disp area.
-Remove console. ( tab may be holding to front panel @ middle bottom use putty knife to pry up.)
-remove 4 screws holding front pannel @ top to chasis.
-remove 2 screws holding frong pannel to chasis inside machine. Acess from top. (some models only.)
-remove bottom screws either 4 or 2 usally 4.
-remove two screws holding door lock to front panel
-remove spring from around bellow.
-remove bellow from front pannel
-remove front pannel. Tilts forward and lifts up off supports. (some models only.) or pannel ifs up and off from white tabs in side of chasis.
-unhook wires to door lock from front pannel. (plastic molex tab)
-may now access pump like in method A.

Pump Replacement
-access pump area
-remove drain hose to pump by looseing clamp and pulling off.
-remove hose to tub by losseing clamp and pulling off.
-remove power connection at back left of pump.
-unscrew two philips screws holding pump too base plate. (only one is really required.)
-replace pump
-clean pump screen or add one if not present.
-reconnect hoses.
-replug in power
-reassemble machine
-test pump operation

I have a similar, but not identical, model. The method is to remove the plastic lower moulding and the relevant side using a star-type screwdriver, then the spring is visible and a replacement easily slipped into place.

On the bottom of the basket there are springs. These springs keep the basket from slamming all over the place when in spin and agitating. Check that these springs haven't fallen off or come loose. I am guessing that this is all that happened. During moves this just happens sometimes and it's easy to fix. Hopefully you didn't loose any springs along the way, but if you did just call your local appliance repair shop and get some new ones. Kenmore parts are easy to come buy. If the springs look good check and see that they aren't real easy to expand. They should be real stiff. If they are easy to expand replace them. Let me know if you have any other questions and let me know if this was helpful. Good luck.

there is no method to ease the tension of the spring. I just used vice grips to grab the end of the spring and pull it out of the ringlet. I used the same method to connect the spring on the new motor.

Replacing the pring head.
1. Remove the side covers.
2. Remove the ink loader assembly. There are 2 connectors on the ink loader. SO remove it slowly.
3. Remove the spring guides on the print head. One on each side, Held in my one torx screw.
4. Remove the spring bracked assembly on the left side of the printer, it puts pressure on the XY axis motor to position the print head. Just pop it off and position it up and to the left of the bracket.
5. Remove the steel square block on the left bottom side of the frame.
6. Unplug the harness and ribbon cables and then from the back of the printer, remove the print head, be careful not to hit the drum.
Install the print head, the ribbon cables are somewhat difficult to plug back in, Just be patient. and make sure they are conneted firmly. Also when replacing the cables and harness, be sure they are routed corectly so the print head does not get bound on them.
Set the print head into position and install the steel block, then the spring bracket on the XY motor, then the spring brackets in the proper positions. Dont forget to put that spring bracket back on, It is easy to over look.
Make sure all things are plugged in on the print head.
Next reinstall the ink loader, make sure all connectors are connected.
Install the covers and you are done.
Take your time, probably should take about an hour. Just to it carefully and methodically.