Macerator is not working

Dou you have the model number

You should check the 1 1/2" vent pipe if there is one attached to the top of the pump casing. The vent pipe must be vented to the open air, outside of the house so the unit can breath air in and out at all times. A lack of airflow usually creates this type of problems. Leave the vent connection open to the room and flush the toilet, you will see the difference when pumping.

see this causes and proceed for fix it. God bless you
Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Diode The high voltage diode converts the A/C power output of the transformer to D/C, doubling the voltage to nearly 5,000 volts. This high voltage powers the magnetron which emits the energy that cooks the food. If the diode burns out, a lower A/C voltage reaches the magnetron, which is not sufficient to power the magnetron. When the diode fails it is often visibly burned out. If it appears to be good, it can be tested with a volt-Ohm meter capable of testing diodes. High voltage diodes frequently fail and are one of the most common points of failure in a microwave oven.

Door Switch If the microwave does not heat, one of the door switches might be defective. Microwave ovens normally have three door switches, if any of them fail the microwave does not turn on and does not heat. Check the switches for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Magnetron If the microwave oven doesn't heat the magnetron tube might have burned out. The magnetron uses high voltage, high current DC power to generate the microwave frequency that cooks the food. If the microwave oven is turned on when it is empty this can cause the magnetron to burn out. Once it is burned out it has to be replaced, it's not repairable.
High Voltage Capacitor If the microwave doesn't heat the high voltage capacitor might be defective. The high voltage capacitor works with the high voltage diode to convert the output of the transformer to DC voltage and to double the output voltage. If the capacitor is burned out the entire high voltage circuit stops working properly. The high voltage capacitor can be checked with a special VOM meter which has a capacitance testing capability. Be aware that the high voltage capacitor can retain a charge of more than 3,000 volts and can injure or kill a person if not handled properly. Only trained technicians should perform this type of testing.

High Voltage Transformer If the microwave does not heat, the high voltage transformer might be burned out. Microwave ovens produce a very high voltage in order to power the magnetron antenna, which emits the energy that cooks the food.

Thermal Fuse If the microwave doesn't heat the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Thermoprotector If the microwave doesn't heat the thermoprotector may have tripped. This is a safety device to prevent the microwave from overheating. It can be tested for continuity to see if it's blown.

Main Control Board If the microwave doesn't heat the main control board may be defective. This is not common. When a microwave doesn't heat the problem is usually within the high voltage circuit; either the high voltage capacitor, diode, transformer or magnetron.

Well it is working in a stinky environment! Just think, without it you could be hand chopping all that "stuff" up!!!


http://www.ehow.com/info_12169188_saniflo-system-work.html



Sounds like you have a sticky switch inside the macerator.

http://www.saniflo.com/products/index/show-product/lang/en/type/part/id/54


As this is a messy piece of plumbing, I'm going to recommed that you take it out of the system and take it outside in the yard, away from the house and give it a good hosing out. It is possible that some gunk has clogged up the pressure chambers vents and this is causing the float or whatever mechanism in there to be stuck on. Flush it as much as possible before you disconnect it.

If you're referring to a fuel injected gasoline vehicle, self prime takes place at key start. If you still feel the need to have the computer repeat this process (or re- self prime), turn the key all the way until the dash lights come on, then turn off. Repeat this 5 times then attempt to start. If all the windows are closed and the radio is off, when you turn key on with engine off, you'll hear the fuel pump at the rear of vehicle buzz or hum as it's priming the system.

The most likely cause of the problem is the flasher unit. It's usually in a small metal can or plastic box that plugs into a socket somewhere in the car (usually under the dashboard, but sometimes in a fusebox in the glove compartment, or less commonly, under the hood). Go to any general car parts store and ask for the turn signal flasher for your model. When you have the replacement in hand, you'll know what you are looking for, and the installation instructions may even tell you exactly where to search for it. The part costs about $3 - $7.

If you're wondering how it works, flashers are usually thermostat-type switches with a built-in heater - when it's in one position, the heater warms it up so it snaps to the other position. When it cools, it snaps back. The current for the heater goes through the turn signals lamps, which explains why it flashes more rapidly or not at all if you have burned-out lamps. Failure modes include fatigue cracking in the bi-metal switch element and burned-out contacts.

If the flasher doesn't fix it, you may have a break in the power wire going to the turn signal lever or a short-circuit (blown fuse) due to damaged insulation somewhere in the turn signal light wiring.

Sounds like the outlet pipe blocked, it should be connected by a short rubber pipe , use this to connect a hose from a cold tap and flush the blockage.

Shut down the power and pull the pump from the unit and give it a exam. There might be something as simple as a item that was flushed down the toilet (pencil, pens, combs, etc.) or just a hair clump. Check that the float is free to track fully up and down. Good Luck!

Sound to me that the toilet is over filling and in doing so water will over flow down the pan. This is definately what I would check first!