Wiring diagram for soldering gun - Weller 8200 Soldering Gun

https://cdn.instructables.com/F8P/LRST/IT6ODYKL/F8PLRSTIT6ODYKL.LARGE.jpg

try https://www.manualslib.com/
for make and model of soldering gun.

I would go to NAPA and get a butane soldering iron
some wire strippers, rosin flux core solder, shrink tube and a heat gun. Then ..


Don't just look for wiring diagrams for that generator; but,
do some google search on how generators are wired.
That will help you sort out the issue.
you don't wont to wire it wrong, run it and burn up a coil .

Ed
:)
.

You know that's a bit goofy, right? Only the manufacturer would have such information.

If you are serious, you CAN do it. Begin with an accurate Ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistances on a new gun (at Sears, say.) To do that, measure the new gun's primary resistance at the plug with the trigger pulled, of course. Remove the gun's soldering tip and measure the resistance of the secondary without the tip and any incandescent bulb in place. (No need to pull the trigger.)

Hopefully you have some of the burned wire from the old gun. Measure the diameters of samples of the burned primary (thin) and secondary (thick) wires with a micrometer. With that information, look up wire gauge information online. You may need 24 gauge and 18 gauge enamel coated wire, for example. Note: a burned wire will no longer have its enamel coating so take that into account when determining the gauge of the "new" wire.

Note the "Ohms/foot" specification for each wire gauge. Divide that number into the resistance values you measured on the new gun (at Sears...). That will indicate the number of feet of each gauge of wire you will need to rewind the core!

Now I'm off to build my own refrigerator... NOT!

These were very simple and sturdy soldering guns [I still have 5 or 6 of them in various sizes] They basically have a transformer wired so that the heating part is basically a short circuit of the large low voltage secondary winding [very low voltage] and because the tip is higher resistance than the rest of the heat producing end, it gets hotter sooner. The secondary is just a single loop of the tube that holds the tip. Usually the only maintenance is to loosen and re-tighten the tip mounting nuts so that there is a good electrical connection [no connection = no heat; poor connection = poor heat]
There may be another small secondary winding that provides power to the light but I think the older ones just attached the lighting wires to the large secondary.
The primary [line voltage] winding of the transformer is switched such that the higher wattage powers the lesser resistance part of the winding and the lower wattage powers the higher resistance part of the same winding. In other words there is a single wire for the primary that has a tap near one end of the winding for dual heat.
If the two windings to the switch are mixed up the higher heat will just be at a different trigger position; if you don't like it, switch them around.

Also check the connection to the non-switched wire from the cord for a good connection. The switches are still available, at least for the newer models; do a google search for
Weller soldering gun switch
or
Weller 7324

Untitled Document [for a switch supplier]

Weller Switch Dual Heat Gun 1 Each 7324

Get an electrically minded neighbour or local shop to have a look. It shouldn't take someone with electrical knowledge long to work it out.
If your not sure with electricity, don't try it, electricity is the silent killer.

There are normally three of the same type. They are consumable, you don't need to stock all the different types - just buy the one you need for your current project.

Note, these are high power and were commonly used for soldering wires in the point-to-point wiring used in old tube electronics. Do not use this on a Printed circuit board - it will damage any silicon component.

Use a a soldering pencil for printed circuit boards.

Hi UtahBeeMan, I'm glad to help! The new socket that you buy will have a pigtail wiring on it, this is so you can solder and heat-shrink that wiring to the vehicle wiring. I suggest you do 1 wire at a time so you don't get the wires crossed. Here what you do, If you bought the socket at the dealer it will come with heat-shrink in the package, if you don't have heat shrink you'll need to buy some at the auto parts store. TOOLs You'll Need: Soldering Gun, Heat Gun, wire stripper. NEXT: Cut one wire, CAUTION: Make certain you are connecting the proper wire by holding the new connector up to the vehicle connector and start with the wire that you just cut. NOW: Strip the wires, next slid the heat shrink on one side of the wire as far back from the heat as possible. NOW: Put the wires together and solder them by placing the heat gun directly on the wire and letting it heat up, after it heats up touch the solder between the tip of the gun and the wire itself, this will give a nice flow of the solder, while moving along the wire. After soldering, let the wire cool down before covering the exposed wire with the heat-shrink. Then slide the heat-shrink into place and use the heat-gun to heat the shrink until you see the insulator material inside come out of the ends, once that happens you are done, move on to the next wire. Hope this helps and have an awesome day!

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