Haven't used this camera in over 10 years. Using digital camera mostly. Needed my macro lens on the Canon AE-1 to get a tight, up close shot of my subect. Camera wouldn't work. Played with it, without any success. bought new battery, no luck. The film advance is partially advanced (and stuck). I can't see the normal info that should be visable in the view finder. Any suggestions?
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Re: Can't advance film, press shutter, no result
Do you have film in the camera? If so, is it an old film or you have just loaded it?
If it's an old film, could it be at the end of the roll - to check this, 'lightly' turn the rewind lever backwards and forwards. As the camera is pointing away from you, turning the rewind knob clockwise will normally rewind the film (don't press the rewind button in, we don't actually want to rewind the film yet), turning the knob clockwise should be tight and a firm stop, if the film is at the end, you will feel the same tight firm stop if you turn it counter-clockwise. Don't turn the rewind knob backwards (counter-clockwise) too hard, you'll unscrew it and it may fall apart. If turning it backwards rolls freely in a full circle, then you have film left.
Another option is that, since it's been so long since you used it, the loading of the film may have gone amis and sometimes the cassette will flip backwards, jamming the film in place so it wont advance - if you have loaded the film and not taken any pics or have not been able to advance it at all, it should be safe to open the back as the film will be in it's original loading position, if you have left the film in it from some time and don't know what stage it's up to it may be best to take it to a camera store where they will have a "Black Bag" to put the camera in and manually open and unload the film. Make sure you get an experienced person - some pimply-face teen that's never used a film camera can easily put their fingers through the shutter while it's in the black bag - I've seen it plenty of times.
OK, that's enough to get started, did this work or do we need to try more options?
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With an SLR you only get true macro focussing on a lens that has proper macro focussing abilities. Unfortunately in the photogaraphy world, there are a huge number of lenses which claim to have macro ability but are stretching the term far too much.
Strictly speaking, macro means that the lens is capable of producing images on the sensor which are the same size as the actual subject or even bigger, at life size this is described as 1:1 macro. Your Tamron lens is only capable of a maximum 1:3.7 "macro", and that's only at the 200mm zoom setting with the subject no closer than 45cm from the lens. By SLR zoom lens standards, that's actually pretty good, but if you want to go closer and get greater magnification you need to either use a supplementary close-up filter lens or for better optical quality use a set of extension rings. The trade off with close up filter lenses is poor image quality and usually plenty of colour fringing and with extension rings is that if you're using a 2x magnification at 200mm, your f5-ish maximum aperture at 200mm becomes a very dark f10.
The only way to get good macro results is to either use a proper (=expensive) macro lens and excellent lighting, or use extension rings plus a good ring flash unit. However you can improve your macro by investing in a more capable zoom lens with a closer minimum focus distance and a better aperture at the telephoto end of the range. This can be expensive, or you can pick up some very cheap 35mm film SLR lenses. Using an adapter will never allow you to achieve infinity focus on a Canon digital SLR but you can get a close focussing 200mm f3.8 very cheaply. The crop factor of your smaller sensor means it will have the same angle of view as a 310mm lens but the aperture will remain at f3.8. As Canon digital SLR's have the deepest body register (lens to sensor distance) of the current systems then you'll also have the effect of using it on an extension ring. The downside is that you'll have to use the lens in a totally manual mode as no information will be communicated to your camera body. By mounting the lens back to front using a reversing ring you can achieve some really stunning macro magnifications but then you need a tripod, powerful flash and absolutely no wind... There was also a Makinon 80-200mm zoom which sells for next to nothing on auction websites, but it had a macro collar which allowed it to achieve around half size macro (1:2).
Alternatively, if the Fuji still works and does the job just keep it in your camera bag ready for those types of shots. overall, that seems the easiest and best solution unless you really want to get heavily into macro shooting.
I hope that I've helped you, please ask more if there's anything unclear. I've tried to keep a very complicated subject as simple as possible. Please also take a moment to rate my answer.
I have the exact same problem, with macro, super macro, or manual focus. Sometimes the macro focus works so well that I can actually capture finger prints on a subject. Other times (most of the time) the focus in macro mode just does not work.
I have read in some forums that it may be related to the amount of light being used when in macro mode; although that doesn't seem to fix the problem for me, maybe that will help your solution. Could you try it out, ie. try macro mode with a brighter light source?
There are two likely reasons for the blurry pictures. One possibility is, as you surmised, a slow shutter speed. Try mounting the camera on a tripod or other stable support. You might also try turning on the flash.
The other reason is focus, or lack thereof. You didn't specify what cameras you have, but if they're Coolpixes, they most likely have a close-up or macro mode that will allow the lens to focus closer. If you're using a DSLR, you will need some other way to focus closer. Macro lenses, extension tubes, and close-up filters are three ways of achieving this.
You have a case of AE(auto exposure) Unit faulty or getting bad. It suppose to register as it move within the AE unit according to the exposure calculation but somehow it is broken. Technician usualy replace the AE unit and takes care of the problem. It can also be rebuilt if new parts are not available. This requires complete disassembly and mirror box removal. The average cost of repair probably runs around $100. Yes, "A" mode is correct for most of the shots and it was a state of art electronic system and more computerized than you think. It has 3 IC chips in there for precessing and 1 chip for the exposure. All works together for good. -James
Check to see that the camera is not in "macro" mode, which would only allow focusing at a close range, but not allow focusing at beyond about 2 meters (look for the "flower" symbol to tell you that macro is activated). Could also be an out of adjustment lens, due to impact or force. Also check to make sure it's not as simple as a dirty lens. Digital cameras are more succeptable to blurry pictures from a smudged lens than film cameras were. Of course, that wouldn't explain why close shots are OK but distant ones aren't. Probably the first two suggestions.
(From Sigma lens literature) Capable of macro photography, this
lens has a 1:2 maximum close-up magnification at the 300 mm focal
length. It's the ideal high performance lens for portraits, sports
photography, nature photography, and other types of photography that
frequently use the telephoto range. It also has a switch for changeover
to macro photography at focal lengths between 200mm and 300mm with a
maximum close-up magnification from 1:2.9 to 1:2. The minimum focusing
distance is 1.5m / 59 in. at all zoom settings.
Sorry you're having such a problem with the fz1 w/b-macro. Here is a shot of the stock fz1 w/b-macro at full 12x zoom - resized only. Try practicing on still objects such as coins or jewlery. If you are beyond 10-12 inches you are probably too far away.