Icemaker After a 5 day power outage the icemaker will not start up again. It was working perfectly before the outage. I tried to make it cycle with a jumper thru the "T" & "H" holes in the unit, but nothing happened. What's the problem?

TURN OFF YOUR CAPS LOCK!!!!
Why on earth do you think the ice is "contaminated"?
The power outage would have to be days long to do something like that. The ice has to melt and the water has to become warm enough to grow bacteria or mold in a freezer full of frozen items.
If you just let it cycle through, it'll push out the "bad" ice cubes and you can just toss them out. The next ones will be made with fresh water.

Pull the machine out and remove the lower back cover. Locate the water valve. With the water turned on and connected remove the 5/16" water line (the bigger one) and then have someone else press the water in the door. If the cylinoid is operating correctly it should spray water out. If it is not operating properly it should at least hum and vibrate. If that does not occur your problem lies elsewhere. As far as the smaller line (1/4") you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve. You can do this by getting a jumper wire, removing the cover of icemaker, which you jsut grab and pull off, and using the jumper wire insert one end of the wire into the cirle marked m and the other in the cicle marked n. Leave there until you hear a click and sometimes see a little spark behind the modular head wheel. Also if you see ice in the maker that hasn't dumper and the teeth of the icemaker are facing any direction other than two o clock position, the icemaker is bad. Also check the fill tube to be sure the no ice is blocking water from coming in.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Greetings,
is the fresh food section/freezer cold enough? the freezer temp operates the icemaker and if there is a refrigeration problem. the icemaker is the first thing to go out..I would check to see if water is frozen inside of icemaker mold. if no water..there could be a inlet valve problem(not letting water flow into icemaker) also, check the fill tube..this is the tube that water flows into the i/m..
if your water valve is leaking..it will fill up the fill tube with ice and prevent it from coming into i/m...look here first, if blocked..use a hairdryer to open blocked ice from tube. this will allow water to flow again..and you can order a new water valve.. the icemaker itself may not be working.. if you found nothing from what I mentioned...look at possible icemaker failure. these can be started manually...remove icemaker cover and if it has a front with just one gear and little holes with letters next to them..this one you can us a jumper wires to start the icemaker...see link

Icemaker Tips


Manually starting a 'harvest' cycle:

Two basic designs of domestic, analog icemakers are most common. (Electronic models come & go from time to time - shudder - but we aren't seeing them in great numbers - yet)

Pop the front cover off yours and check the large gear front & center. If the front plate is metal, and you see a Phillips
screw in the center of this gear, that's great - you own a 'microswitch' design. This is one of the most reliable units ever made! Here's what it looks like with the front cover off:

To manually start a cycle, either grasp the ejector and rotate upward (CW fr. front), or use a screwdriver to turn the smaller gear (CCW) if yours has a slot for this. Once you turn it a short distance, you'll hear a little 'click and the unit will start to run. Make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during this test cycle.

If there's no screw, that's OK too, you own a 'modular' unit, and even though we, um, make more income from these <grin>, they're still pretty decent. Here's what a modular looks like with the front cover off:

To start a cycle with this one, don't attempt to turn the gears manually! You'll need a short piece of insulated solid copper wire, 12-14 gauge. (Just strip a 4 in. piece out of some 12-2 'romex' used in house wiring
.) Strip the ends back about ¾ in. and bend it into a 'U' shape. This wire is inserted into the holes marked 'T' and 'H' in the front of the icemaker to bypass the tstat and run a cycle. (don't insert it into any holes except 'T' & 'H' !) Remove the jumper after a few seconds (or the heater will stay on), and let it run, waiting for the fill at the end. Again, make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during your test cycle.

Note: I stress this jumper wire needs to be insulated, because you're briefly jumping 120V here. The usual precautions apply


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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Here is what the manual says:

3. Icer-ette freezes but water does not come into mold; no ice production.
_____________________________________________________________

3A. Nonfunctioning water valve assembly. 3A. Clean or replace solenoid valve assembly.

3B. Mold heater assembly. 3B. Contact Raritan Technical Support.

3C. Water supply turned off. 3C. Provide pressurized water.

3D. Icemaker module. 3D. Replace icemaker module.

3E. Cold control. 3E. Replace cold control.
3F. Bad wiring harness plug contacts. 3F. Contact Raritan Technical Support.*

Although this is for troubleshooting non optical sensor refrigerators:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
The troubleshooting procedures for cycling the unit are exactly the same,
The ice maker module part number for the 120V unit is PN 628366 (do a net search for this part number and save yourslef a bumch of money if you fetermine your moduleis bad) You start the harvest cycle by removing the front cover and then jumpering test points T to H. The white dial will begin to move if there is power to the module. Remove the jumper when the sweep arm reaches 5" o'clock and let the ice maker automatically cycle. It should harvest, and fill in on complete turn of the white dial. If it does not fill you probably have a water supply or water valve problem. There is an inline input power fuse for the ice maker. Power should come in via the red wire.

Mind you the ice maker has an internal thermostat behind the module assy that has to reach 15 deg F to start the harvest cycle. When you jumper T to H you are bypassing the thermostat. If the thermostat fails or the unit does not reach 15 deg F then the harvest cycle will never begin.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

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You need to replace the icemaker . Pt # 2198597 . When you open the freezer door . the laser flash 2 times , then pause , then 2 more times continually (normal) ? If the laser does not light at all , then icemaker is in the harvest mode ( may be stuck , replace icemaker ) . If in harvest mode , even slightly , jumper will not work .

replace defrost timer. stuck in defrost

I think I got this.... my oven clock does run slow for months then perfect for months, then slow again. I believe a repair would be a waste of money since there is nothing wrong with the clock. The problem is with the supplier of electricity. The oven uses 220 so may be related to the coverting 220 to 110 v. The clock is counting cycles in the electricity supplied to your home and that varies all the time.

check for bad water valve again

if you got 110 volts to ice maker. try jumping out the T & H ( a small insulated copperwire) . this will cause the ice maker cycle, if this does nothing replace the ice maker.(entire assy cheaper then the parts). remeber you might have to shut the door switch to get the 110v. some machines run the power through light switch

That on/off arm...you should be able to move it and it will likely make a small click when the switch goes on or off. That arm controls the ice making. There is also a float, is it working freely? It has a switch too. Ultimately, the water is controlled by a solenoid valve. It may be defective. Many of these units are removable to test the switches with a multimeter. Turn off the water and remove to test. Some parts are available...some parts are by the unit only.