When I plug in the L32WD22 to an outlet it flashes orange/yellow 7 or eight times? I can also power on the Tv but have a black screen with a green power indicator light on then when turned off it flashes 20 plus times the orange/yellow color? what do I need to do ? Should I even try to fix it?
SOURCE: My RCA L42WD22 flat screen will not power on after
Take the tv apart.The tv power supply board,that the board,have power a/c cord plug into it.That the power supply board,check component parts like capacitors,see if it leaking gases,these capacitors are dead.Capacitors they'll alway bulges up on it tops or puff up on it tops.Have tools like soldering iron and solders?Know basic electronic and soldering?Replaced these dead capacitors will get power to ur tv back.Or tries websites like Shopjkimmy.com to buy a whole refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
SOURCE: rca l32wd22 blackscreen
princess_dc6,
Just recently, I was told how to get another tv.
You find a good TV service centre and ask them to fix it. If they cant you take the work order from your tv sc and call 1-877-297-8391.
You will get yourself a tv
SOURCE: i have a rca l32wd22 screen weht black with no
Aboyd992,
Take your tv to a service center and ask them to fix it. If they cant...
Have them make out a work order and then you call 1-877-297-8391. The people at the other end ot the tele number will give another tv
SOURCE: rca tv schematics
This is an edited re-post of an earlier (recent) solution I offered: High probability that a (too) cheap component
called a capacitor, has lost capacitance and gained losses internally. This
leads to random problems with the start-up and finally with the continuing
operation of the main power supply. Since
this is a common problem in 'switched-mode' power supplies, you should be able
to 'score' a replacement supply from an RCA service center
for somewhere between $75-$150 dollars US and since these supplies are often made
by companies other than the branded name on the set, they are most often
plugged into the boards they service and can be replaced without a soldering
iron or no skills other than common sense.
I'd
recommend unplugging the set, removing the back panel, looking for a smaller
board with larger than average components on it, the latter consisting of
cylindrical parts mounted both vertically and horizontally on the board (capacitors)
and block-like parts wound with copper wire with black cores (transformers
& chokes). Also
found on this board will be one or more larger aluminum 'heat sinks' that
dissipate heat from semiconductors mounted on them. This
board should be visibly related to the incoming AC line. If
you are concerned about pulling plugs, either mark them (your own system) or
take photos of them from several angles for reference before removing any
plugs. The
part that often cause this kind of problem (capacitor) normally fails
internally and may not show any signs of being sick such as bulging or chemical
discharge and may not be detectable without the use of a capacitance meter and
is mostly in the range of 4.7-100uFd/50VDC. The
reason waiting for the supply to start up is that when this part
fails, it also becomes very sensitive to temperature changes so may be pulled
back toward a value of capacitance that allows the supply to start up. If
you are curious, you can try placing a fan toward the rear vents of the set or
alternately, using a hair dryer to blow heat into them. One
of these will cause the supply to start working again; heat or cooling will
cause the cap to shift its value enough (depending on where it is
electronically) to either further delay or speed up the operation.
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