For what its worth, I found out what was wrong with the Kenmore Elite 110-62882101. The circuit board works a small relay that works the heating element. We replaced the thermister, then the circuit board - to no avail! Finally, we replaced the relay, and the problem ended. Seems that the relay didn't always make up even though it clicked. It's a Potter Brumfield (and old line company) but made in China (what isn't?). The guy is the local parts store says the motor relay is the same type (they look alike) and that these caused trouble in the past. The heat circuit didn't use relays in the past (when there were thermostats), but they do now (that temperature is controlled by thermisters and circuit boards). So, the lowly, seemingly simple and reliable heat relay can be the problem - if your dryer has one. --- Powerguy
I have a similar problem with my old DE406 Maytag. It use to require a couple hours of rest before it would apply heat but once it did start up (as long as the door was not opened to "check the clothes") it would continue running/heating/drying the appropriate duration.
The air flow exhaust is free and clear and the air flows quite well. (My dryer does not exhibit the audible click-on, click-off symptom as mentioned in the original posted question however.) So I am relatively "certain" that it does not have to do with air flow.
Should I presume that the problem is with the one of the two thermostats?
Finally, the two different thermostats for this model are apparently 3-3035 and 3-5865. Which thermostat is the Low Temp and which is the High Temp? Which one do you think is more likely the cause of the problem?
Check the exterior air duct; the one leading outside.
This can get clogged and also block the air flow
The problem is almost certainly caused by a lack of air flow, clean ducting and check any external vent is clear. Regards Advisor
Tango, your dryer is most likely overheating inside the cabinet. This is caused by poor air flow and will cause the dryer to "short cycle" the heating element. 1.)Make sure the dryer is at least 8" away from the wall. This will ensure the duct work from the dryer to the wall is not "choked" off and preventing air flow. Visually verify the flex duct behind the dryer. Make sure that any bends in it are smooth "S" shapes and no 90 degree turns. 2.)If you've never had this done, you should... hire a pro to come out and clean the internal dryer duct work, the ductwork inside the walls leading outside. They will, over time, collect lint in there and eventually begin choking off the air flow. Kinda like a clogged artery and cholesterol. 3.) You may have a failed blower inside the dryer. I doubt this because a failed blower makes an awfully loud noise to let you know it's bad. You didn't mention noise so this is a long shot.
Hi,
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
properly.
if
you dryer is gas check out this gas
no heat
tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
heat.
check
out this electric
no heat
tip...
heatman101
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same problem in a frigidaire model GLER331ASO. Thank for info. I will check these things
Having same problem with a Kenmore Elite model 110-62882101. It will run fine for weeks then no heat. All parts check out OK. Very Frustrating. Cleaned out vent line 3 months ago, worked OK after that, then it wouldn't heat twice during weeks thereafter, "healed" itself after a few days (I did nothing), works ok now. Will look at vent situation again. This is a rather new installation, however. "powerguy"
frigidaire Gallory series dryer will run but no heat
you can feel heat through vent...no heat in dryer...clothes do not dry..cleaned vent of lint
no heat and it stops in about 10 minutes
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