Question about Lexmark Wheelwriter 3500 Typewriter

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Lexmark personal wheelwriter 2 repair

How do I remove the top cover of the typewriter. There is abroken wire that I need to repair. There are no screw etc

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On each of the four corners below and just underneath the sides are little plastic levers that need to be pushed in while at the same time lifting the cover. Sometimes while you are lifting one side the other will drop back down and relatch. Keep working at it..

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jayw_0e86fb055a7b73de

Posted on Jul 31, 2007

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1 Answer

How do i remove cover from an olivetti studio 44


The top cover comes off by pulling it forward from the rear forward.

Jul 18, 2014 | Olivetti Vintage Studio 44 Typewriter W/...

Tip

How To Replace The Thermal Protector on Hoover Windtunnel Uprights



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover Self-Propelled WindTunnel Bagless...

Tip

How To Repair Thermal Switch Hoover Windtunnel Upright



All Hoover Windtunnels have a safety feature that will shut down the motor if it starts getting to hot, which prevents the motor from burning out. Usually after this switch trips itself you just need to let the machine cool down for 30-45 minutes and it should come back on. Sometimes even after clearing a clog, or replacing the filters and bags, the vacuum will continue to cut off. If you're absolutely sure that there's no obstructions, or other things that are causing the motor to overheat, then the thermal reset switch itself may have gone bad. Usually you can tell when the switch is bad by feeling the motor cover immediately after the machine shuts off. If it's warm or hot to the touch, this indicates there is something still stuck in the machine. If it's not hot, this means usually the thermal switch itself has gone bad.

Here's how you can replace this switch. Again, it's very important to check all other possible fixes before attempting this repair.

What you'll need to do this repair:
  1. Phillips Head Screwdriver
  2. T20 Torx Bit Screwdriver
  3. Hoover Windtunnel Thermal Reset Switch (this varies from model to model, please contact us to find out which exact one your model uses)
MAKE SURE THAT YOUR VACUUM IS UNPLUGGED

Use a countertop or work bench, and turn the vacuum cleaner upside down so that the handle is resting on the floor, and the brushes are facing upwards. Unscrew the four screws on the corner of the bottom plate that covers the brush roller:
6d56198.jpg

Remove the bottom plate, then pull the roller brush and belts out of your machine. There are 3 screws that hold the top brush cover in place that need to be removed. On the right side the screw is down below the transmission to the right. There's also a screw in the agitator tray, in the middle that needs to be removed. NOTE: This small screw in the agitator tray is only present on some models, may or may not have this little screw, but all models will have all other screws circled. I have circled both screws that need to be removed:
a23ff8e.jpg
The screws on the left side that need to be removed are also circled. One screw holds the upper brush cover on, and the other two screws secure the hose in place. Remove all three screws as well as the transparent hose cover:
54df18d.jpg

After all of these screws have been removed, there are two clips that are the last things holding the top brush cover onto the vacuum. Use a flat head screwdriver to push these clips off on both the left and right sides. The right side clip is near the pulley that the flat belt rides on, and the left side clip is next to the internal hose.

6d7f968.jpg
After popping these two clips out, put the machine on top of the table or work bench, and remove the top agitator housing. You'll see on both sides of the vacuum, two metal brackets that have two black screws. These brackets actually secure the agitator housing to the upright part. All four screws need to be removed from the machine.

1b8514f.jpg
After removing the 2 brackets from the machine, you'll now to need to release the self-propelled cable from the agitator housing. Unscrew the 2 screws that are circled (in red), then use your Torx T20 Screwdriver and remove the washer and screw from the actuator arm on the transmission (circled in green)

b0f7e2b.jpg
You will now be able to completely remove the agitator housing (the plastic housing that roller brush fits into) from the rest of the vacuum cleaner. It's best at this time to remove the door that covers the vacuum cleaner, as well as removing the bag itself. Next, remove the two silver screws that hold the headlight lens in place, and remove the lens:

887b32d.jpg
After the headlight cover has been removed, you'll now have access to the light bulb. Unscrew the black screw that secures the headlight. Now you'll need to remove the motor cover to get inside the motor compartment. There are 5 long screws that hold this cover down, two of these are underneath of the plastic piece directly above the headlight (on some models, the dirt finder controls that turn red and green when the floor is clean):


c662ad9.jpg
If your model has an "Embedded Dirt Finder" control, carefully turn the plastic housing over so that the circuit board inside is facing you. You can see at the top of the circuit board housing two plastic clips. Simply pull these two clips back with your hands, and release the circuit board from the plastic housing.
815275a.jpg
There are two wire harnesses that connect onto
this circuit board that need to be removed also. The larger terminal that has the black and white wires has a simply clip that you press, and pull out, the smaller blue and white wire terminal just simply pulls off without having to press a clip.

After removing the circuit board, you'll see a foam part where the headlight, and the two wire harness from the circuit board go into the motor housing. Simply use a pair of needle nose plyers and pull upwards on this foam part to remove it:

c0bc366.jpg
Now you can remove the motor cover, and get direct access to your motor. The thermal reset switch is located on the orange wire, right before it connects into the motor terminal. I have highlighted the actual thermal switch in the picture below.


f68664e.jpg
I found that it's much easier to splice the new orange wire to the old wire as opposed to opening up the entire rear of the vacuum to get access to the other end of the orange wire. Cut the existing wire where I have marked it with an X in the picture of above, and use a simple Wire Nut to attach the new orange wire to the old one.

After splicing the two orange wires together, simply re-install the motor cover over top of the motor. Now plug the machine in and let it run for 15-20 minutes while the machine is still apart, just to ensure that the new thermal switch corrected your problem. If the machine did not cut off while testing it, great! Simply put the machine back together and you'll be back to vacuuming.

I really hope that this repair tip was helpful. Due to the complexity of this repair, and the length of time it takes, most vacuum repair shops will charge a lot of money to do this. Hopefully with this guide, you'll be able to complete this repair on your own.

If there's a step that you don't fully understand, or if you have any follow up questions, please don't hesitate to use the comment field, or the clarification request, and I'll be happy to answer any questions for you.

If you need to obtain any of these parts for your vacuum cleaner, please visit our website. Here's a link to most of the Hoover Windtunnel parts that we sell online. If you need something that's not listed, feel free to give us a call or use our online live help chat.
Hoover Windtunnel Parts & Accessories

If you found this repair tip helpful, please be so kind and rate my repair helpful, or leave me some feedback.

Thank you,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

on Jun 01, 2010 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

How do I remove the cover?


You need to open the clear plastic cover, then look in the inside of the machine and there is a clip on each side. You will have to pull twords the center of the machine to release the catch AND pull up on the outer cover. Then run your finger nail or small flat blade screwdriver between the top and bottom covers at the front of the unit (below the space bar). Lift from the front and it should come off. The inside latches can be hard to pull so may take several attempts to get it open.

Mar 17, 2014 | Brother SX-4000 Typewriter

1 Answer

2002 hyundai santa fe alternator


Mostly from the bottom is what worked for me for the bottom screw and i also used the top to remove the screw that is on top. You will need to remove the front passenger side tire, six screws that hold the plastic cover and then you can get to the alternator. Dont forget to unhook the negative cable wire from your battery. I removed both wires just to be on the safer side. You will have a total of two bolts to remove the alternator, one screw to remove the ground wire (on your alternator) and one wire harness clip. I did it last week and it wasn't as bad as i thought. Good luck.

Nov 12, 2012 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Shift key is sticking


Hi smith corona machine use torx screws and you will need to remove the top cover and then the key board remove the base plate then wash out the rubber key switches dry them very well
and put it all back together.
OR stand it on its back and bang the base this may move the dirt that is stopping the switch
if this is of use please rate me thanks ian

Mar 08, 2011 | Smith Corona Wordsmith 100 Typewriter

1 Answer

How do you remove cover on Lexmark 1000 ?


On both sides almost all the way to the back of the base there is a slot insert a screw driver thru the top of the slot to release the latches, the cover will lift towards the front, BE CAREFUL OF THE FLAT CABLE THAT THAT GOES TO THE LIGHTS.

DickyO

May 14, 2010 | Lexmark Wheelwriter 1000 Typewriter

1 Answer

How do you remove cover on Lexmark 1000 ?


There is a slot on the lower rear on each side, insert a slotted screw driver in the top of the slot while lifting the cover, rock it to the front, be careful tou can rip out the indicator lamp cable or damage the lower R. hand keys

DickyO

Mar 24, 2010 | Lexmark Wheelwriter 1000 Typewriter

1 Answer

The power keeps shutting down. when you jiggle the switch, it comes back on and when youhold the switch, it will usually stay on. I thing it needs a new switch but I do not know how to open the casing to...


The switch is mounted on a circuit board and has come unsoldered or has broken solder pad. to removed the cover: 1. Remove two screws behind the paper slot. Locate the two small slots on either side of the case(about halfway, front-t0-back, and top-to bottom), insert a small screwdriver and release the latches that hold the top to the bottom cover. With a larger screwdriver, release the front cover latches by inserting the screwdriver between the spacebar and top cover and pull towards the front and up. Tilt the top cover up from the front to back to remove. Remove the 2 screws that secure the power supply unit and lift from center-to left and then manke necessary repairs to the switch. run jumpers if necessary. Assemble in reverse order> Good Luck

Nov 20, 2009 | Brother SX-4000 Typewriter

3 Answers

Beeping


It most likely beeping because it cannot make its resetting movement. That is,it cannot "find-out" where its left margin is. There may be something hindering the actual movement of the print carrier. Check inside the typewriter by lifting up the top cover and move the print unit by hand. It should be able to move from the left to right-hand side of the typewriter unhindered. The shaft that the print unit moves on should be clean and it may have gathered dust etc,so give it a wipe with a clean cloth (lint free) with a small drop of light oil on it.. Replace the top cover and switch on the machine

Nov 05, 2007 | Nakajima AE-740 Typewriter

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