Dopped tv, worked fine, now not picture but has sound
I was moving and dropped my kv-36fs10, which is only about 215 pounds! the plastic on corner broke but i put it back together and the t.v. worked fine at my house, and hour or two later when i get to my new house the t.v. dosent work, i hit the power button, it clicks makes sound but no picture, the standby light is blinking though any suggestions?
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1. don't press the buttons like a hardcore boxer :)
2. disassemble the remote control. No big deal. It has a plastic housing the buttons are on a plastic/rubber sheet. (remove batteries first)
3. clean the plastic/rubber sheet where the buttons are both on top and rear side. Take some clean petrol from the groceries next corner, and clean the black pads on the bottom of the buttons + also on the circuit sheet you'll find inside the remote control.
4. Put everything together and...
on the side of the tranny where your shiftier cable connects to your linkage with a plastic piece that will either be broke or has slid to the side if it has only slid to the side and the groves on both plastic pieces are good then you will need a friend to help with adjustment to get it back to where it is supposed to be easiest way to adjust is to put tranny linkage in park then have friend move leaver and hold leaver wile sliding plastic pieces together to lock them into place.
TURN THERMOSTAT TO OFF AND FAN SWITCH TO ON. IF FAN DOES NOT COME ON THEN IT IS NOT RECEIVING 24 VOLTS. TAKE FRONT COVER OFF THERMOSTAT, THEN THE SUB BASE. YOU SHOULD NOW SEE THE COLORED WIRES CONNECTED TO THE BASE ITSELF. NOW DICONNECT ONLY THE RED AND GREEN WIRES AND TOUCH THEM TOGETHER, THERE MAY BE A SMALL SPARK, BUT HOLD THEM TOGETHER, WAIT FOR THE FAN TO RUN, AND IF IT DOES YOU ARE GETTING 24 VOLTS TO THE THERMOSTAT. REPLACE THE WIRES BACK ONTO THEIR CONNECTORS . NOW CHECK THE FAN SELECTOR SWITCH, THE PLASTIC LEVER. UNDER THE LEVER IS A METAL BALL WITCH WHEN MOVED DROPS IN A SLOT ON THE BOARD. SOMETIMES THE BALL DOES NOT DROP IN PROPERLY AND MAKE THE CONNECTION WITH THE BOARD. IF THIS IS THE CASE, MAKE SURE IT SLIPS IN AND OUT OF THE ON AND OFF SWITCHES EASILY AND CHECK FOR WEAR IN BETWEEN THE TWO HOLES. IF YOU CAN'T SEE A GRAY COLOR BETWEEN THE TWO HOLES , THEN IT'S NOT GETTING 24 VOLTS. IF YOU CAN SEE GRAY BETWEEN THE HOLES, THEN PUT THE SUB BASE BACK ON AND TURN THE SELECTOR SWITCH TO OFF AN ON. IF YOUR FAN DOES'NT WORK AFTER THIS, THEN REPLACE YOUR THERMOSTAT.
I just bought the part last week for 61.76 from the dealership. It takes about two hours to unscrew the strap from the inside, remove trim from the inside starting at the top, sides and bottom. Remove the license plate from the outside of the hatch. Next remove the 8 bolts (10mm)and 3 white plastic tabs that snap on from the large black plate and move to the side (you don't need to disconnect the wires). From here you can reach around the rear window unit and open the door by moving the latch or pulling the cable. You should remove the 4 nuts that hold on the rear window assembly and move the to reach two nuts which holds the center portion of the trim piece you are trying to remove. There should be a plastic piece covering the cable and latch, it just pops off by pulling it straight out. There are three plastic tabs in the corners and one screw (lock for the hatch) that holds on the license plate assembly to the rear hatch along with two white plastic tabs which are located at the bottom two holes for license plate. These plastic tabs come in from the front. Use pliers to squeeze the together and push. You will need to disconnect the license plate lamp wire connector from the left side. The license plate assembly should drop away. Two screws hold on the latch, remove and replace and reverse proceedure.
Remove the bottom base according to user manual, clips into the bottom, pinch them together with your finger under the base. Then remove hinge cover in back of panel by popping off the plastic cover with a flathead screwdriver. Then remove the 4 screws holding the metal plate. Under the plate are two screws. remove them and then carefully pop the case open. The 2 screws are the only hard fixed part holding the case together, plastic snaps hold the rest. Also remove the 4 screws in the back of the unit. Remember where everything goes, write itdown, there are several plugin modules you will need to remove when disasembling.
I guess it depends on how sure you are in taking the unit apart and putting it back together. The timing does sound off, the machine will have to be partially disassembled and and move the gearing a couple of notches forward to put it back in time. If you decide to attempt this repair, make notes or take pictures, so you have step by step minders to put it back together. Also leave the needle off until it is back in time.