My daughter's HK695 is blowing fuses. Not real fast but after a few hours of playing, even at low volume the fuse will blow.
I want to open up the woofer (which contains all the circuitry and controls) and take a look.
I removed all the screws in the base but I can't seperate the base from the shell.
Thanks In Advance,
Pete C - I had the same issue, and the same frustration.
The key is-> the floor bumper on the back side has a hiden screw under it. Remove the bumper, then stick a hook in the hole to pull out the plastic plug, then the screw is accessable. Good luck on finding anything inside.
I got one HK695 and faced exactley the same problem opening the woofer.
First remove all the screws down under the base then remove the safetynet and then the element. From there it posible to seperate the base from the shell after the screws are remowed.
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If there is nothing left inside the little glass tube, it's a fast blow. A slow blow fuse will usually have a spring and some other material that make up the slow blow mechanism. slow blow fuses used to also have 'SB' stamped on the metal end caps. The fuse holder may also tell you. If you cant figure it out, put in a fast blow and see how long it lasts, If if blows when you turn the volume high, you should try a slow blow.
1. Stop going to this shop.
A fuse that keeps blowing is a sign of a problem. You never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage because the idea is the fuse is suppose to blow before the the wires melt and catch on fire. The reason it stopped working and the fuse didn't blow is probably be cause the wire did melt someplace and you are lucky the car didn't burn. If it did burn and the insurance company found the 40 amp fuse, they would probably have refused to pay.
The idea that a repair shop would do this tells me that they don't know what they are doing. Read this FUSES
About the only thing that would cause the fan fuse to blow is either the fan has a problem and is dragging or a short in the wiring. I would bet the fan motor is probably bad. The hoses and thermostat have nothing to do with the fan motor fuse blowing.
I must agree that if the fuses are open and you replace them that your problem maybe fixed. If you can remove the fuse, I recommend taking it to a RadioShack and see if someone there can figure out what it is. I am going to assume that the fuse should be a 250 V. If you can find one that matches the same appearance, go with the smallest aperage rating you can find. Go with this route only if the person can not tell you exactly what it is you need. Be sure to match the type of fuse if you can see inside it like in the case of a glass fuse. Some are slow-blow fuses and some are fast-blow. If you are uncertain your safest bet is to use a fast-blow with a real low amp rating for the voltage you are using. If the amp rating is too low, it may run fine at lower volumes and pop when you turn it up. If I could physically see the fuse, I would probably be able to tell you what it was and what you needed to replace it with.
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.