Machine not spinning, but motor is spinning fine. Took back off and found belt off. Reinstated what appears to be perfectly good belt but as soon as machine is turned back on, the belt works its way towards drum and comes off. Spoke on phone to engineer(who doesn't work on Bosch) and was told to adjust bolts to motor which would tighten belt but upon inspection it would appear the motor housing is attached to drum housing, so no room for adjustment,(although belt in its present location would appear to be correct tension).On the odd occasion when a wash can be performed,there are loud clattering noises on spin.
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Re: Drive belt and noises.
Your drum shaft is broken this is making the pulley wobble causing the belt to come off and it will also explain the noise. This is a very expensive job sometimes requiring the complete tub to be changed might be time for a new machine
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the motor spins with out the belt , makes me tend to discount the capacitor
I would be looking for a tub brake that is not being opened to allow the tub to agitate
there are solenoid activated brake under the machine the applies a brake when you lift the lid during wash, when the program is finished
have a technician check it out
I recently had an E3 code appear on my Samsung B1445V washing machine. It appeared after I started a Quick Wash, it would fill with water then stop - the E3 code would later appear. Prior to it breaking down, it was making loud creaking noises for several months beforehand so it wasn't a surprise when it gave up on me.
It turned out that the drive belt had worn out and snapped. The drive-belt connects the motor and the drum wheel (similar to a fan belt in a car). When it broke the flapping belt also cut through several wires of the electrical loom from the motor. Fortunately they were colour coded and I was able to repair these.
After much searching on the Internet, I found a new genuine Samsung 1270 J5 Drive Belt on eBay for £8.44. I had it shipped out by first class post and it arrived the next day.
Extra information: '1270' is the length of the belt in millimetres, I'm not sure what 'J5' means. You might also see these belts advertised as a 1270 Poly-V drive belt - this is also ok. It's called 'Poly-V' because the belt has 'v' shaped teeth on the inside which fit in the cog of the motor spindle so it doesn't slip off. I noticed a lot of these belts were interchangeable between different manufacturers - just make sure it's the correct length '1270mm' and has several 'v' shaped teeth on the inside.
After fitting the belt (very easy - took less than 5 mins and tutorials on YouTube if required), I manually span the drum several times to make sure the belt remained on. I then tried a Spin Cycle and it worked perfectly. I felt a bit smug after as I did consider buying a new washing machine...I saved myself £££'s by fixing it.
If you do try this yourself, here's a few pointers:
1) Drain the machine on 'Drain' cycle. Unplugged from the socket and remove all hoses at rear. With a bowl handy, at the bottom right front of the machine, twist and pull out the small drain hose and remove remaining water. Then twist and pull out the filter - more water may come out.
2) Carefully turn the washing machine upside down. On the bottom there is a white cardboard liner held on by 2 screws, remove these. The electric motor is now visible.
3) Visually inspect the motor spindle to make sure the old drive belt is not tangled around the spindle. Also check the electrical wires from the motor to make sure they're not damaged.
4) It's a confined space to work in so be careful not to scratch and cut yourself on sharp metal parts inside. Place the new belt over the motor spindle then half over the drum wheel. Rotate the drum wheel and the drive belt will slip on by itself. Once it is fully on, spin the drum several times by hand from the inside to make sure the belt remains attached.
5) Put the bottom cardboard line back, turn it upright then reattached the hoses etc. Plug it back in and run a 'Spin' cycle to test.
I did an internet search on your error code. I found the following for a 3E code (as opposed to the E3 code you mentioned)...I kept looking and eventually found something for E3:
3E code - Motor tacho fault detected
Can also be caused by be main PCB
If the motor tacho signals are inputted less than 2 for 2 seconds after main drive motor started, this error will occur.
Check motor tacho
Check all connections and blocks to the motor
Check connections on the main control module
Check main control module
The "E3" error indicates that a Samsung washer's motor is not running properly. The cycle can usually be restarted by pressing the "Start/Pause" button. However, if the error code appears again, you should contact an authorized service technician.
I surely do hope this fixes it all. The pulley that fell apart is supposed to. Well, not quite. It is not fastened inside the machine, and comes off easily. It is the belt tensioner. It fits into 2 slots on the bottom steel panel of the machine (The base) You will be finding it is a pain in the neck to put back on, but you can do so. The belt goes with the grooves toward the drum, not away from it. The belt goes in a S shape around the motor pulley and the tensioner pulley. One you put the tensioner back in it's place nin the two slots, you will push (or pull) on it against the spring arm to "bend" it so as to get the belt back on. Be blessed.
With the belt off can you spin the motor freely by hand? If no then the bearings are froze and the motor has to be replaced. If yes and the motor will not start when power is applied then the motor needs to be replaced. If it starts without the belt on but not with, then the drum is bound somewhere and has to be freed. Eric