I believe I have a problem with my convergence.
What is the best way to get to the convergence boards, they don't look accessable from the back side?
Also, does anyone know where I can get a good price on a convergence modue?
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Re: 56WP30 Convergence repair
Convergence amp ic bad http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm http://cmpalmer.blogspot.com/2006/11/fixing-my-own-tv-part-ii.html http://www.hdtvoice.com/voice/showthread.php?t=28929
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You have several bad grounds on the convergence board. Boy! I mean several and to numerous to mention. If you know which is the convergence board, pull this out of the TV. This will be difficult and requires your best patience. The convergence IC is located on a large heat sink. The IC will be an STK 393-110. Start by re soldering the pins on this IC. Check all resistors that are 3.9 ohms at 2 watts for values with a DMM. I do not believe these will be need replacing, check to be sure any way. You may have to re solder these as well. You will note you will need to re solder the jumper jacks (these connect to boards on either side of the one you are working on. Locations of these jumper jacks are PM, VU, and PF. Now if you can, inspect the rest of the board, and look very close for solder breaks on diodes, transistors, capacitors, resistors and transformers. You must really look close to find these. Don't expect to do this in one day. Spend about thirty minutes a day for week, for inspection and corrections. Thanks for (yawning!) asking me and show all hands of support! G'dnite.
RCA, CRT Projection TV, ITC222 chassis Faults - models D52W.., D40W.., D56W.., D61W.. ·Symptom: No Convergence, Picture is bowed and distorted, colors don’t align.
The Fuse for the convergence power supply has blown You'll also notice that the convergence settings have disappeared from the on screen menu. The fuse likely blew because of a fault on the convergence board. If you've never done soldering or dismantled a TV before this is probably not the best place to start. The back cover needs to be removed and the fuse (see picture) identified, the deflection/power supply board needs to be unplugged (label or mark all connectors beforehand) and flipped over and the fuse checked/replaced. You need a soldering iron and solder ****** or solder wick and a multi-meter to check the fuse. If you want to tackle it yourself see attached image for reference or get a quote from a repair shop (approx $200-$300 Total) the convergence board may also need repair.
Symptom: Dead Set- TV Tries to Start or intermittent dead.
The set could be in shut down mode due to a fault detected in the power supply, vertical or horizontal deflection circuits. The common problems with this chassis that will cause a dead set or intermittent dead set symptom are, bad power supply capacitors, bad flyback, bad HV cap in horizontal output circuit and cold solders (on opposite side of board) especially under the flyback area. To gain access to replace any of these parts the back cover needs to be removed and the deflection/power supply board needs to be unplugged (label or mark all connectors beforehand) and flipped over. These are only the most common problems and it could be any number of other faults. If you have electronic (TV) repair experience check the items mentioned (see picture), otherwise it's best to seek a qualified RCA tech for an estimate/service call. ·Symptom: Erratic operation of set – turns off by self, the volume or channel changes by self or on screen menu appears intermittently. Switches on the front panel assembly (FPA) problem. What happens with this model is the FPA switches (one or more) start to conduct just as if someone was pressing the buttons. This in effect locks up the system control or causes it to initiate erratic commands. The way to determine if the FPA is bad is to remove it by unplugging from set. This requires front panel disassembly. Note: The remote will still work with the FPA removed so the set can be tested. Hope this helped, johnnydiode, Fixya.
Call around all tv shops to get the best prices.Tell them u are 100% sure ur tv have convergence board problems,no examine and problems estamate require,just give u the final priced to fixed the tv convergence board.The prices awhile back $300-350 for complete tv convergence board fixed plus parts too.
I believe that is on the back of the convergence board. What makes you suspect that particular switching regulator out of curiosity? It may very well be, but just wondering how you pinpointed it to that.
If the new sub board didnt fix the problem you will need a new convergence board as the sub deflection boards with the ICs only powers the convergence board. thats a complete seperate board. Let me know if you need more assistance.
do not remove the back panel to that model with the power cord still plugged in cause if you do the digital section of the TV will be completely wiped out. The convergence board is in the front behind the speaker grille and small access panel its the first board after the access panel its on the right side rectangle board. You can get a convergence board at the following link just leave an email with your model number and what your needing. I work there as a support tech and they just got those boards in yesterday and havent even listed them yet. Heres the link. http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
I believe it is mute-1-8-3 to enter the service mode, HOWEVER, I have also read that until the convergence problem is repaired, i.e. - depending on the configuration, either 2 individual IC's located on the lower board with 'playing card' size heat sinks or a simple replacmenet convergence board, adjusting the convergence through the service mode is comparable to "ripping the transmission out of your car to fix a flat tire". I myself have not gone into the service mode since I am still waiting for the replacement IC's - I get to do a component level repair.
Do NOT attempt to enter the service mode to align convergence if you cannot align the convergence with the user's menu. If the convergence cannot be corrected with the user's menu, it means that one of your convergence IC's has burned out and possibly burned out the fuse next to it. If you change any settings without first replacing the bad parts, you will only make things much worse. I believe that set is actually a Samsung, and has the 2 convergence IC's on their own board mounted above the small signal board. If you do not know how to identify and replace shorted convergence IC's, allow a qualified tech to handle it for you.