I have had my set for two years and recently starting having a problem with the sound intermittently when someone walked by the set (old wood floors transmit vibration to set). The problem worsened and now the slightest disruption causes the audio to hum, then sound like loud wind noise on a microphone and finally a pop and the video and audio are both gone.
I discovered that the picture and sound can be restored by lifting on the cables for the component input from my DVD player. This led me to believe that I had a bad solder joint on the board from torqing the cables during installation. By the way, the problem remains even if the component input cables are all removed. Upon close inspection, the solder looked intact, but I noticed that Sanyo used only two of the five screw holes they engineered to stabilize the inputs. I soldered the connections at the board even though they looked good and added screws to all of the holes (location for holes is visible on inside of the cover) for more stability. Adding the screws made it much more stable, so I had high hopes.
But the he problem remains. Is the problem in the the component connector itself? Am I destined for the repair shop?
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Re: Hum, Rumble,Pop...Signal Loss
Yup ya off to the "Shop" me thinks ..lol this type of fault is a nightmare to fix, generally.. any intermittent one is..lol but in saying this any serviceman worth his/her salt should be able to fix it in a hour or two.. I like you would suspect a "Dry Joint" or bad connection.. Make sure you get a firm "Quote" B4 proceeding.. good Luck
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I've included a link which provides information on some of the possible causes for hum in an instrument amp. If all else fails to locate the hum, the hum may be caused by a bad filtering capacitor, possibly in the power supply. I suggest you have the amp diagnosed by a reputable musical instrument shop. Troubleshooting Guitar Amplifier Hum eHow
It IS an airborne signal so you can expect it to be affected by the antenna and other electromagnetic interference. Most FM tuners have a selector for how aggressively they accept or reject a marginal signal. Perhaps yours is crossing that threshold periodically.
I think you may have a problem with your electric assisted power steering motor. Is the loss in power only when your are making sharp turns to the right or left?
Do you hear any load noises or squeling sounds?
You should have it inspected, Don't want you to lose control while driving.
I just fixed my bass amp with a similar problem last week: the problem is related to a loose connection on the PCB board (likely).
A bass amp is a rough place for circuitry: the low rumble and power shake a bass amp more than a guitar amp.
In my case, the power transistors needed to be re-soldered and then the grounding bolts and screws needed to be removed and cleaned because the connection was bad. Remember that when two different metals needed for an electric connection are toughing, there is the likelyhood that corrosion WILL happen.
My bass amp did basically the same thing yours did: sounded good at low volumes, but at higher volumes it would act up.
In short, there is nothing you can do (unless you are a repair person): you need to take it to a local music shop and have a tech fix the intermittant contact problem: someone who knows what they are doing should only take an hour at most.
There is a standby indication that activates after 10-15 minutes without any input signal. I suspect that might be what the red light is telling you - no signal.
Loud hum from a loosened cable is normal as hum usually means there's an ungrounded connection somewhere acting as an antenna and the amp is doing its job to amplify what it thinks is a signal, in this case 60hz stray ac current is being sensed nearby. It's a good sign that you get hum from the sub because that means the amp is alive.
Avoid manipulating cable connections with the Sub or Receiver turned on as you could introduce a static spike that could harm any connected equipment.
Are you certain a bass signal is making it into the sub? The complexities of modern AV receivers vary in how you configure them to direct LFE to a sub. Bone up on that end of the chain.
Or, just hang a CD player on the Inputs of the sub and play something with a reassonable amount of Low Frequencies.
>>>> Be advised that this way of testing has NO VOLUME CONTROL because amps without volume controls always operate at maximum gain, relying on your external controls to attentuate it (hence, the loud hum from a loose cable); so choose a track that eases into the loud parts with some quiet parts up front and BE READY TO PAUSE THE PROGRAM AT ANY SIGNS OF STRESS. <<<<
A living sub will produce only muffled rumble in the absence of other speakers producing the higher frequencies which carry the intelligence of the signal. If that works, back to the receiver for settings. If not... sigh.
For hum problems, even those you cause yourself:
Disconnect all inputs to see if that helps. If it goes away start with the signal cables and add in things until it comes back.
Sometimes the reversing the orientation of the AC plug can help with hum. Or it could be something like a loose or high resistance connection internal to the sub. Good luck.