How do I replace speakers on a 1994 xj6 ?
Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers
#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10
small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer
1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access
to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely
disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each
door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits
before you attempt any panel work.
2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper
and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door
coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized
3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:
It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the
adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting
everything back together.
a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square”
plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right
side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the
b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock
release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a
single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and
the escutcheon is easily removed.
c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the
inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the
panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left
side by slip-in clips and they release easily.
d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal
screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of
the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the
sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large
flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type
press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two
e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it
releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take
much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store
it on the seats for safekeeping.
4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:
a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.
b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it
under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap
each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward
direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they
have never been removed in the past, but they will release.
c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw located in the middle of the door handle.
d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light
lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it
outwards from the door.
e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel
securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door
light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are
f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed),
carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of
fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter.
Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as
there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is
not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the
connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another
more worker friendly location.
5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:
a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by
releasing the electrical connector.
b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each
of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly
to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not
c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of
the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.
d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper
sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was
previously removed in Step 4a.
e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left
(passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door
lower inner panel.
f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal
screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left
(passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the
door lower inner panel.
g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift
pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet
metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the
lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.
h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back
for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing
the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting
material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker
can be removed from the panel.
6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:
Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs
will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount
either type in either model.
a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated
solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical
connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply
solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker
terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and
strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.
b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel
and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount
with only two fasteners.
c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers,
place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them
up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure
the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the
inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a
nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.
d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e
and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect
the speaker wire connector at the door panel.
7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is
literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.
8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is
9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:
This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted
a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off
b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet
metal mounting screws.
c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector
for the speaker wires.
d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to
the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old
leads to the new speaker terminals.
e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the
f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal
g) Press the speaker grill into place.
h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.