Light blinking in the rear of the tv labeled D769

Turn on very briefly and make sure the large red wire that entered the block is well away from any metal---if hear a frying sound and blink sequence is gone the block is bad( I used to put the wire into a old soda bottle as it has over 20 thousand volts coming out of it, much like the spark plug wires in a car---high voltage with low current.

Hello! I believe your asking for the rear speaker wire colors...

Right Rear + Red/Yellow
Right Rear - Brown/White

Left Rear + Blue/Yellow
Left Rear - Gray/White

Guru.....Saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

use a AA battery and touch the wires in the back of the radio that are paired and then listen to hear the popping and crackling sounds from the given speaker it causes no damage and its a good way to find rear and front left and right.then label them.

If you mean the rear shelf removal, then you begin by removing the rear seat (lift to release the corner clips on each side holding the cushion to the floor). Then remove the fasteners for the seat belts, then lift the seat back to raise and release it from its clips, and remove it from the vehicle. There are then a lower and upper trim panel around the back shelf that you need to remove (these may be on each side of the shelf, e.g. they are called 'quarter trim' panels). Then you will see some push-pin fasteners that hold the shelf across the front lower edge, so you gently pry out the center push-pin of each one of those to release the fastener. Then you pull the shelf forward to release it from the clips that hold it under the window. Then remove the wire to the center high-mounted brake light. The panel with its speakers attached can then be removed, but also remove the wires from the speakers so you don't break those. connections.
That is the procedure as shown in my '98 manual.

Replacement of Front and Rear Door Speakers

Required Tools:

#2 Phillips Screwdriver (magnetic tip is useful)
9 mm Nut Driver
8” or 10” Flat Tip Screwdriver
Small awl or other sharp pointed instrument
Soldering Iron w/solder or 8 to 10 small wire **** splices
8 to 10 small machine screws -- #8 x ¾” or equivalent 8 to 10 small machine screw nuts & flat washers to match
Thread locking compound “Loctite” (optional)
6” wooden dowel of ½” diameter to be used as a drift
Small mallet or hammer

1) Whenever you are attempting to a remove door panel to gain access to the speaker, or any other electrical component, absolutely disconnect the negative battery cable. Battery power is supplied to each door window motor and it’s always prudent to de-energize these circuits before you attempt any panel work.

2) XJ40 door inner panels (front or rear) are comprised of an upper and lower section, which interface to provide complete inner door coverage. Neither panel is difficult to remove nor are any specialized tools required.


3) Remove the Upper Inner Door Panels as follows:

It’s a good idea to store all the removed parts and screws in the adjacent foot well for safekeeping and easy access when you are putting everything back together.

a) Using a small awl (or equivalent), remove the small “square” plastic cover for the inner door lock release mechanism (upper right side when facing inner side of door). It pivots towards the front of the car.

b) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the inner door lock release mechanism plastic / chrome escutcheon. It’s held in place by a single machine screw. Pull out on the door lock release mechanism and the escutcheon is easily removed.

c) Using both hands, pull out on the wood veneer panel at the inner door lock release mechanism to provide clearance and slide the panel towards the front of the car. The panel is secured on the left side by slip-in clips and they release easily.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the two sheet metal screws on the left side. For the front doors only, lift the bottom of the rubber ventilation boot at the front edge of the door and remove the sheet metal screw. Additionally, for the front door only, use the large flat screwdriver as a lever to ease out the single “fir tree” type press-fit connector. Neither of the rear doors contains these two additional fasteners.

e) Using both hands, lift the upper inner door panel until it releases from the metal ridge along the window line. It doesn’t take much effort to remove the upper panel as it slides off vertically. Store it on the seats for safekeeping.

4) Remove the Lower Inner Door Panels as follows:

a) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located at the upper edge of the lower panel.

b) Using a ½”small wooden dowel or equivalent drift, place it under the lower edge of the door handle screw access cover. Lightly tap each end of the access cover using the dowel and mallet in an upward direction to release the access cover. These covers can be tight if they have never been removed in the past, but they will release.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw located in the middle of the door handle.

d) Using a small awl or equivalent, remove the bottom door light lens by releasing it from its locator at the rear and sliding it outwards from the door.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the lower panel securing sheet metal screw located in the middle of the bottom door light assembly. All sheet metal screw fasteners for the lower panel are now removed.

f) Using both hands (and the large flat screwdriver, if needed), carefully pull off the lower inner door panel by release the series of fir-tree type press-fit connectors along the sides and lower perimeter. Once the panel is removed, it can be laid horizontally on the seat as there is sufficient length of wire bundle to allow this movement. It is not necessary to disconnect the wiring harness, but if desired, the connectors can be released so that the panel can be moved to another more worker friendly location.

5) Remove Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

a) Disconnect the speaker positive and negative conductors by releasing the electrical connector.

b) Using the 9mm Nutdriver, remove the speed clip nut from each of the four (4) speaker fastener studs. Press the nutdriver down firmly to engage the speed nut … do NOT cut away any foam material as it is not necessary.

c) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the left (driver side) or right (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

d) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately above the speaker. It is located just below the upper sheet metal screw securing tab on the lower panel … the screw was previously removed in Step 4a.

e) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower right (driver side) or lower left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

f) Using the #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the sheet metal screw immediately to the lower far right (driver side) or lower far left (passenger side) of the speaker as viewed from the back side of the door lower inner panel.

g) Steps 5c, d, e and f will release the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel from the lower door inner panel. Removal of the sheet metal screws will allow the speaker panel to be pulled away from the lower panel by 3” to 4” to facilitate access for speaker removal.

h) With the speaker / window lift pushbutton panel eased back for working clearance, grasp the speaker with one hand while pressing the four (4) speaker studs downward through the foam supporting material. After the studs are clear from the foam material, the speaker can be removed from the panel.

6) Install New Door Mounted Speaker as follows:

Typically, base XJ40 models use 3.5” door speakers while the VDPs will use 4” door speakers. Though I believe it is possible to mount either type in either model.

a) Using the wiring supplied with the new speakers and insulated solderless **** splices, transfer the old speaker wiring electrical connector to the new speaker. Another alternate method is to simply solder the old speaker wires with connector to the new speaker terminals. This is a superior method for electrical continuity and strength of joint … although it does require some soldering skills.

b) Install the new 3.5” speaker by easing back the speaker panel and sliding in the new speaker. Normally, the 3.5” models will mount with only two fasteners.

c) Using two of the small machine screws with flat washers, place these fasteners through the speaker mounting lugs and press them up through the existing holes in the foam supporting material. Secure the screws with flat washers and matching nuts from the back side of the inner door panel. The use of thread locking compound (Loctite) is a nice touch to prevent loosening due to vibration.

d) Re-install the sheet metal screws removed in Steps 5c, d, e and f. This will re-mount the speaker panel. Don’t forget to re-connect the speaker wire connector at the door panel.


7) Re-installation of the inner door lower and upper panels is literally a reverse of the removal procedure. No hidden tricks.

8) Perform Steps 3 through 6 for the other doors and the job is complete.

9) Remove Rear Footwell Mounted Speaker as follows:

This sequence is good for both 4” and 5.25” footwell mounted woofers.

a) Using a small flat screwdriver as a lever, carefully ease off the grill.

b) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver, remove the four (4) sheet metal mounting screws.

c) Ease out the old speaker and release the electrical connector for the speaker wires.

d) Transfer the old speaker wires and electrical connector to the new speaker using solderless **** splices or by soldering the old leads to the new speaker terminals.

e) Re-connect the speaker wires to the harness by joining the electrical connector.

f) Mount the new speaker and re-attach the necessary sheet metal screws.

g) Press the speaker grill into place.

h) Repeat Steps 9a though 9g for the other footwell speaker.

Unplug connector zn under front speaker panel if it comes on with remote replace this part. If fails to come check DM caopacitors generally also cause this problem

On new systems, like the one you bought to replace old one: grey and white are front, purple and green are rear. New wires should be labelled or shown on diagram on radio body. Stripes indicate negative side of speaker.

On your old loom: cut back behind plug, and strip wires at ends. Isolate power and grounds, and any that go hot EVER! Now checking just the remaining wires, use a AA or 9-volt battery, and touch pairs of wires to opposite poles of the battery. If you touch two that go to the same speaker, you will hear a slight static sound at that speaker: label these for that speaker, and so on. Once you get the pairs seperated and labelled by speaker location, the negs will be the striped ones, though you may not find they all have stripes. once you pair them, test in both polarity positions, the correct one will sound better right away. Should be able to reach max volume with little buzz or distortion. If not switch pow and neg sides. Hope this helps, TT

There is a lot involved in replacing these speakers. You should also know that the original factory speakers are 10 ohm speakers. This means that if you replace them with new speakers (most of which are 4 ohm) you run the risk of damaging the stereo, the speakers, or both. This can also cause a potential fire hazard in your car. If you want new speakers, you really should look at installing a new stereo as well.

To get to the back speakers, you will need to remove 2 bolts located under the front edge of the rear seat (bottom). After you remove the bottom, you will need to remove the rear seat (back). This involves removing the bolts that hold down the rear seat belts, which is a large sized torx bit (T-45, T-47, or T-50... Don't remember which). After removing these, lift straight up on the seat back to remove. Now remove the deck brake light housing, and the bracket that holds it. Now the deck cover can be removed. Be careful not to bend it too much getting it out from under the side trim on both sides.

For the front speakers, you must disassemble a good portion of the dash. Remove the screw holding the light switch and the wiper switch housings. This screw is underneath each housing. Once removed, there are dash mounting screws behind them. These screws (and many of the other dash screws) are a smaller torx-bit (T-10 or T-15, don't remember which). Sometimes they use a 7mm bolt. There is a cover panel just above the glove box. This panel is held on with 2 screws located in the glove box. After removing this panel, you will find 2 or 3 bolts holding on the dash. Last but not least, you will find 2 bolts inside each of the defroster vent grilles. These grilles just snap out for easier access to the bolts.

1991 Pontiac Grand Am Car Radio Stereo Audio Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4" Round
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: In Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6" x 9" Oval
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

# 1... check the balane and faders... make sure they're all centered, next... take the radio oud... and get you an old speaker... strip 2 wires of the same color... and connect the speaker... if you have sound... tape the wires... and try the second set... what ever you do... do not... let the wires touch... and do not... connect the speakers to ground... you will fry the outputs in the radio, if you find a set of wires with no sound... chances are... you blew out the outputs in the radio, now... after you determin that all the wire seta have sound... the next thing to do is pull off the panel for the back door, first thing you do is look for any screws... if you find some... remove them... once you have them out... put one hand on one side of the door... and just pull gently... it'll come off with a very little effort... then disconnect the wires for doorlocks... the windows... and all that... then disconnect speaker wiring harness... get a 9volt battery... and touch the speaker terminals... and you should hear a pop... if you do... the speaker is good... if not... replace... then just reverse the procedure to install... good luck to you

Hi Marlon,

Not a whole I can do to help. What I can do is refer you to go get a Chilton, or Haynes manual thac voers your Plymouth Voyager. They have schematics with wire colors labeled.You will have a good shot at figuring out which wire is which.