Valve not opening

My experience on the direct spark ranges is that the gas valve is usually at fault for this problem. The regulator valve and the burner shutoff solenoids are all built together in one valve assembely. The valve will work properly until it gets hot then it will stick and not open when the oven calls for heat again.
Please post back with the complete model and serial numbers if you need further help in troubleshooting it. There have been many updates and design changes on these ranges.
Thanks/Mike

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The problem is usually the igniter not reaching the correct amp draw .When the igniter does not reach the correct amp draw it may allow the gas valve to partially open or not open at all. The igniters are inexpensive and easy to replace. This video will walk you thru the correct procedure for testing an oven igniter. It may be a different model but the testing will be the same.You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. Not all models are available. All parts come with installation instructions.

Possibly the ignitor for the main oven burner has failed--

An observation question:

When the Broiler 'lights' and comes on, do you notice the ignitor glowing bright, before the gas valve (to the Broiler) opens, and you get the Broiler lighting---

Now-- for the main burner to come on, -- there has to be a similar bright glow from the MAIN BURNER ignitor, before its main burner gas valve can open-- No Ignitor?-- No ignition, and not Main Oven burner!

Let me know what you need from this point on --

Mack B

Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:

Pilot Ignition

Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)

Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)

Spark Ignition System

Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

The igniter needs to draw between 3.6 and 4 amps to open the gas valve even thogh it is glowing the resistance may not be the same . Check the amperage and then replace igniter

If everything works on your range, but the oven, the most likely culprit is the igniter for the BAKE manifold. What is confusing me, though is the statement in your question where you say the "oven will light up, but never get hot". Yet, you say the oven does not ignite. Can you clarify this? In some ovens the BAKE and BROIL manifolds BOTH light when preheating, to reduce the warm up time. Once the desired temperature is reached the manifold not in use, will shut off.

In any case, on a gas range, the burners for the BAKE and BROIL manifolds use an electric glow bar type igniter. There's a separate igniter for EACH burner. When you make a bake or broil selection on your oven control, the respective igniter begins to glow. After the igniter reaches a certain current potential, the gas safety valve is opened, gas flows to the manifold, and voila! You have ignition. It can take as long as 90 seconds for the burner to ignite. What can happen over time, is the igniter becomes weak or fails. If the igniter becomes weak, it will still glow, but it never reaches the desired current potential to open the gas safety valve. The result: you end up with an igniter glowing with no ignition. And, if you're like me, you're left scratching your head wondering why the thing isn't working when it "looks" like it is. You can easily tell if the igniter is working by opening your oven door and selecting bake. Watch the oven pan in the bottom of the oven. You should see an orange glow coming from under it. It here's no glow at all, the igniter has probably failed. If there IS a glow, a current reading will tell if it's within tolerance. The following link explains more on these igniters and how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

The bake igniter is a common fail item as it gets used more frequently than the broil function. On your range both igniters are interchangeable. You can purchase replacements on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com, or appliancepartspros.com. The part number is WB2X9154. Shop all three sites for the best price.

I hope this helps you. If my assessment of your symptoms is wrong, or if you need further assistance, please let me know.

I went to the kitchenaid web site for parts and found a trouble shooting section. I read about how a electronic glow coil works and discovered that mine was just old and did not reach the right voltage to open the gas flow valve.