My stereo powers on and off frequently. Initially thought some Butt connectors were bad to the power. Replaced all connections going to 16 pin plug. Still shorting. The local shop tells me it is the female receptacle on the stereo chasis that is probably causing the short. Claims they see it all of the time on this model.
How difficult is it to re-solder the chasis plug connectors? Any suggestions on how I go about doing it?
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Re: Short on Chasis
Open unit to point of seeing the connector in question. turn pcb over to reveal the pins soldered to board. Simply using a hot solder iron and flux-core solder (and you properly grounded using wrist strap), proceed to re-solder each pin's solder joint. Additionally, to prevent this same broken solder joint problem again, use strong epoxy and apply to gaps between connector and pcb to prevent connector from "rocking" back and forth during cable installation.
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Some fuel pumps come with a new harness and butt connectors to attach them. Peel back the loom close to the pump connection and check the connection if it has them. If it does have butt connectors remove them and solder the wires with heat shrink tubing. Keep in mind your close to the fuel tank.
Most of the time the female end of the connector comes right of a part called the ballast. Ballast's are replacable. Is the aluminum melted? I am not sure where to purchase the ballast. The female connectors is ussally atached to frame with screws or sometimes clips
- a bad power cord or connector to the unit on the cord (if any), bad power connector on the unit (if any) or bad connector soldering on the circuit board (replace cord or resolder/replace connector if necessary)
- main power switch could have dirty contacts or some damage (needs to be cleaned or replaced)
- an electrolytic filter capacitor (any of them) could be dried out, blown (bulged at the top), badly soldered or otherwise faulty (should be replaced if faulty and resoldered if there is a loose solder joint)
- a connector (any of them) could be loosely plugged, oxydized or have bad solder joints on any pins (connections should be checked, dirty contacts cleaned, loosely soldered pins resoldered)
- any other components could be poorly soldered or damaged (resolder or replace, as necessary - might require technical service to establish which components are bad, if any)
Note that the problem may be any of the above, a combination of any of the above or something entirely different, i'm just pointing to some possible causes/solutions.
I would check both of the power wires for the unit. There is a yellow one and a red one. The yellow one always has power regardless of the position of the ignition switch. The red one only gets power when the ignition switch is in the on position. Also does this only happen when the vehicle is in motion or does it happen just sitting and listening to the stereo? It also could possibly be the ground wire not getting a good connection. Make sure the ground wire is tightly connected to something that is metal. Good luck.
The first thing I would do is pull the stereo out of the dash and unplug it . If the buzzing stops the stereo is bad get a new stereo. Its not hard to remove the stereo. Right above the cup holder there is a small cover you need a very small screwdriver to remove it . Under that is a few screws take those out then grab the plastic cover that runs around the stereo and pull towards the back window it simply pops off (No screws) After you remove that cover you will see 4 phillips head screws that hold the stereo in remove them. Last slide out the stereo there will be 1 plug with alot of wires that is the power and speakers . Unplug it . The other round plug is the FM antenna