Blows damper diode after a few hours or sometimes a day or so. Caught it once heard a snap and lost convergence due to shorted damper diode sides also pulled in. Think I have a bad crt or leaky divider block?
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It may actually be possible that the damper is sticking due to heat based deformity until air flow of any type purges the excessive heat.
That could be due to a manufacturing defect or worn hinge points.
You may get a better feel for how the dampers are working by calibrating the HVAC control;
1. With ignition ON and engine not running, press AC and Recirc 3 times in under 2 seconds
2. Verify AC and Recirc LEDs flash, wait 15 seconds for the re-calibration to complete, you may hear the damper doors cycling while calibration occurs. If audible movement is heard, listen that no dragging occurs during that movement
3. Once calibration is complete, press the AC and Recirc buttons to see the LEDs change
4. If LEDs don't change after their buttons are pressed, take the vehicle to the local dealer for electrical diagnosis
5. If dragging of the damper doors is heard, that may be the root of the possible sticking in hot weather.
Have the dealer or other competent mechanic check those dampers
Is this a GMC or Chevrolet? If so what Year? The most probable cause of this condition is one or more Damper Stepper Motor failures. These are prone to failure due to the Manufacturers failure to spend a few more pennies for Premium Quality devices. The replacement is often very costly due to the location of the one most prone to failure is located on the top of the Plenum which requires a technician several hours to replace.
If only the drivers side is affected and the passengers side has full control it could be the Dual Control module is defective. These are far easier to replace and less costly.
the blinking light signifies to a repair technician with capacitors or circuits are having an issue they can diagnose the problem via the amount of blinks in between pauses however it will require a technician and some specific tools and schematics to fix and it may be cheaper if its no longer under warranty to purchase a new one
This is probably a shorted high voltage rectifier diode. See this link:
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's
probably okay) We have the service manuals you need and have uploaded them here and here to help you. You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here. I recommend that you bookmark that link to your favorites. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Inexpensive fix yes, but quite dangerous as you have to either replace the High voltage Diode or the magnetron depending on what has gone. Most often it is the Diode as that is fed a few thousand volts and anomolies such as a surge in current cause it to blow(popping sound) You can also check the fuses and if lucky it is just a fuse, but a fuse very seldomly just blows as it points to an underlying fault such as magnetron , capacitor or Diode. Have a service man attend to it unless you know what you are doing as you are dealing with lethal voltages and current even after the microwave has been switched off.