Pitco Fryer Problem is pilot outage. Already have replaced high limit switch, Thermopile, and pilot assembly. Pilot seems to be going out when t-stat is satisfied and burners are shutting off, seems to be a more than normal popping sound when burners are shutting off. Magnet on valve does not seem to be weak, when lighting pilot , magnet holds after about 10 seconds. I've also tried adjusting the air shutters and it doesn't seem to make any difference.This is an LP gas system and I don't believe it's a pressure issue as all other appliances are fine.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces an electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. Be sure that you have a good pilot flame. The pilot may need to be cleaned or adjusted. The thermopile is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

Check and clean the thermopile, it is the cylindrical piece of metal standing behind the pilot assembly.Try also to tighten its wiring connections to the gas valve and high limit.If it does not correct the problem, replace the thermopile.

Your unit has a "vent safety limit switch" which is a high temperature limit. It gets hot enough to trip over time because you do not have proper venting. It is a safety switch and SHOULD NOT be disabled - instead find and fix the venting problem(chimney bad?)!