I haven't installed speakers since I was a teenager... that was 20 years ago.. I pulled plastic stock speakers out of my toyotas rear deck... plastic speaker frames coming out of a metal rear deck.... The came out of the trunk.. not out of the top of the rear deck... So I tried to install my new Nakamichi 6.5" Coaxials the same way.. from the bottom instead of dropping them in the top... The new speakers have metal frames.. Well both went tinny and fuzzy within 15 minutes.. Did they need to be insulated from the metal rear deck or did they need to be dropped in from the top? I'm not sure where I went wrong... Mounted from the bottom the rubber gasket on the face of the speaker seemed to match up perfectly with the wholes in the metal rear deck. thanks for helping a old Noob...
I don't think the problem was the metal basket touching the vehicle sheet metal. It's very, VERY common for speakers to be mounted directly to sheet metal. I think what you needed was a spacer, not so much an insulator. Usually when speakers are bottom-mounted, there's a thick gasket on the front that prevents the speaker cone from coming into contact with the mounting surface. Its only function is to increase the distance between the speaker cone and the metal. Your first speakers probably lacked the spacer, so the cone was pushed up against the metal and couldn't move. This is what ultimately caused the damage. Keep in mind that even with your cardboard insulators, there'd still be an electrical connection between the mounting deck and the speaker basket, because of the metal mounting screws.
Posted on Jul 30, 2007
Take out the speakers and take an ohm meter and measure from both speaker connections on the speaker and see if there is an resistance or connections to the frame of the speakers. Next see how many ohms the original speakers where, and what these speakers are. If they are different, you may have blown the amp or the head unit. Good Luck
Posted on Jul 27, 2007
Have you had them checked out yet, as to the grounding to their metal frames? Are you using a separate pair of wires with no grounding and running directly to your amp?
You probably fried the voice coils on the speakers. As maybe they could not take as much power as you thought, but I highly doubt now that you have an issue with the grounding of the frames, unless like I asked you to check before, the resistance from the speaker terminals to the frame on the bad speakers.
×
Oct 18, 2014 | Nakamichi Audio Players & Recorders
Jul 30, 2011 | Car Audio & Video
Nov 07, 2010 | 1990 Dodge Dakota
Jan 02, 2010 | Kenwood KDC-BT742U
Oct 15, 2009 | OEM Systems Car Audio & Video
Sep 26, 2009 | Infinity 475A Car Audio Amplifier
Sep 05, 2009 | Nakamichi Audio Players & Recorders
Jun 02, 2009 | Nakamichi SP-C622 Car Speaker
Apr 15, 2008 | Nakamichi SoundSpace 8 System
Dec 21, 2007 | Dynaudio MW 160 Car Mid-Range
Apr 14, 2021 | Alpine Car Audio & Video
74 views
Usually answered in minutes!
i know they are both 4 ohm speakers...
So you don't think it's the way they were mounted to metal?
I have installed a cheap pair of Sonys but used some cardboard as a gasket so the speakers don't touch the rear tray.. and they are still fine after 2 weeks...
I would like to get better speakers.. but I dont want to just have them blow..
i checked them out on my home stereo and they sound like crap..
can the speakers be saved?
The stock speaker wires were hooked up to my Toyota stereo.. no amp...
My question is ... did I kill the speakers by having the metal frame of the speaker touch the metal frame of the car?
Because the new speakers I put in.. I made a cardboard gasket and they are still working.
×