Replacing heating element

If ice is frozen in the cube trays and does not come out, this can be caused by an open tray heater element or a cam mechanism that is not working and not turning on the heat element. Replacement of parts is in order. But lots of places ripp you for parts so when you figure in the cost of the part and shipping it is often best to just go out and get a new ice maker for about 40 bucks on ebay.

This tutorial will show you how to check your Smeg element and how to replace your Smeg cooker element.
Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating

• Your oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Smeg manual.
• If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
• When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing.

If this helped you why not get me a beer? Paul is from the Naturally he would appreciate beer How to Repair Home...

A] First of all, we know your upper element is working because you have some hot water:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
It says tank is not overheating.
It says tank is getting 240Volts.
It we know water heater is 240Volts because you have 2 elements.
And it says reset button is not tripped.

B] That leaves 4 suspects:
Suspect 1) Bad Upper thermostat or Bad Lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 2) Burned out Lower element: solution take out element, clean sediment out of tank, put in new element. Steps shown in link below
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 3) Loose wire or connection: solution open covers and remove insulation and look for signs of burning and high heat. Tighten all screws very tight. Replace burned part. Put insulation and covers back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air which will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

C] Before replacing anything, you can test water heater parts and determine exact cause of problem. Testing requires $5 multimeter from Lowes or Home Depot:
Install battery in multimeter.
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240 or 250 or 277 Volts.
When test calls for testing continuity, rotate multimeter dial to ohms (upside down horseshoe symbol is ohms)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
After doing 30 minutes of testing, you will be expert in water heaters.

If sediment builds up inside tank, it will reach lower element and burn out the element.
That could be problem.
Restore full efficiency to tank by cleaning out sediment and replacing lower element.

E] More reading to preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Electric water heater if fully repairable by homeowner:

A] First of all, we know your upper element is working because you have some hot water:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
That says tank is not overheating.
It says tank is getting 240Volts.
It we know water heater is 240Volts because you have 2 elements.
And it says reset button is not tripped.

B] That leaves 4 suspects:
Suspect 1) Bad Upper thermostat or Bad Lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 2) Burned out Lower element: solution take out element, clean sediment out of tank, put in new element. Steps shown in link below
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 3) Loose wire or connection: solution open covers and remove insulation and look for signs of burning and high heat. Tighten all screws very tight. Replace burned part. Put insulation and covers back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air which will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

C] Before replacing anything, you can test water heater parts and determine exact cause of problem. Testing requires $5 multimeter from Lowes or Home Depot:
Install battery in multimeter.
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240 or 250 or 277 Volts.
When test calls for testing continuity, rotate multimeter dial to ohms (upside down horseshoe symbol is ohms)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
After doing 30 minutes of testing, you will be expert in water heaters.

D] You replaced elements for a reason.
Did you test elements before replacing?
Was tank producing some hot water before you replaced elements?
If tank producing some hot water, then lower element was bad, and upper element was good.

And when you replaced lower element, did you also clean sediment out of tank?

If sediment builds up inside tank, it will reach lower element and burn out the element.
That could have been original problem, and it could be same problem again.
Restore full efficiency to tank by cleaning out sediment and replacing lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

E} More reading to preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

When you turn the control to 350 or so the bottom heating element should heat up, if it don't, turn the control to broil if the top element heats up it is most likely the bottom element has burnt out and need replacing. You can find the elements at Home Depot or Lowes, if not in stock at the store, you can order it inside the store.

the condensate tube is run incorrectly on this model and goes uphill into the area above the refrigerator where there is a condensate pan. This will plug and back up and cause this problem. I have fixed ours several times but it always came back. The last time I bought a new clear plastic tube and reran the condensate out the back of the refrigerator and down through my floor. It's all downhill now and seems to have fixed the problem.

yes that is it, does it look bad any busted springs? have continuity if no then your element is bad if yes then change the thermal fuse on the heating element canal... whirlpoolpartssurplus.com i will give you free shipping...call

Really sounds like an element is burnt out or a safety has malfuctioned. Possible loss of power so check plug, recept., and breaker. Look for burnt terminals and reset breaker even if it does not look tripped. Dryer usually have 2 elements. One for low heat and both for hi heat. May want to check this out. Please keep in mind that some repairs can cost more than buying a new dryer. I got one at Lowes for about $200 and it works great. I don't think you can get a repair guy out and to the repairs for that amount. Just depends on how many whistles, buzzers, and bells you want on your machine.

Good Luck.

Hi caleycatz,
It sounds like you are in need of a motor module for your icemaker. This is the motor and gear that drives the icemaker prongs. The part number is
W10190935 The price is $77.59 and $6.00 shipping
I can have one of these at your door in 1-2 days, so let me know if you need one. We take Visa Mastercard and Discover. Or you can order from sears for the same price and wait 10 days.
Good luck to you and I really hope this will FixYa. Please take the time to rate me. Thanks
Mike Anerson (Owner)
Anderson Appliance Repair
(865)945-3808
[email protected]

pete5runner back again: The check you should make is to disconnect the two wires to the heating element carefully (with unit unplugged). Then connect a 110 voltmeter to the two wires. The plug in the machine and start a dry cycle. If you see 110 volts on the voltmeter, then you know that power is getting to the heating element, and you have isolated the heating element as defective. If you need a heating element, I got one in NY by calling 718-767-7396. New element was $29, shipping included. I don't know if he will ship to where you are located. Good luck, and let me know what happens.