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first its important to understand how humidifiers work ,
they work by using a pressurized source of water (prefer demineralized) that enters a chamber that has a device that wicks the water up into it , then a fan induces a draft across it , this produces evaporation of the water into the air flow , this air is then ducted into the air handler for the structure (home?)
now that being said the water chamber needs constant refilling due to evaporation of water from air flow , most times this is handled from a solenoid valve that is basically an electric operated valve , and yes it's logical that it could be tied to a humidistat for demand use only .
also this type of humidifier requires frequent cleaning or it may back up and spill water in the wrong places ,especially if there isn't a demineralizing filter on water line , as the minerals that naturally occur in water don't evaporate and get left inside the chamber , making less and less room for new water to be added
Don't use a hose, it will rust the motor and bearings.
if the blades are metal, and the unit is detached from the furnace. Try carburator cleaner or brake cleaner - out doors away from flames. Also, rotate so no solvents get to the bearings and wash away he lubricants. The solvent evaporates quickly but it will take a minute so don't be too impatient to get to the next blade.
If they are just dusty, and you don't want to dismount the unit, try some canned air - office stores carry this for cleaning keyboards and such. To get a really good stream, turn the can upside down and spray. The liquid propellant will come out and makes a really good cleaner. It will be cold cold cold as it evaporates and some ice will form if the humidity is high enough.
Effectiveness will depend on what is causing the dust to stick to the blades - oil film, soot from wood/coil/fuel oil and cigarette smoke are difficult.
Try removing the cover, and manually cycling on the controler switch? Does the solenoid click on, next to the humidifier (the unit with the water line running through it, with wires coming out of it)? If it does click on, is water running down the water pad? It doesn't necessarily drain water when it's working correctly. All of the water SHOULD be getting evaporated into the air return duct.
If it's clicking on, but no water is running out, you should check the water supply saddle valve and make sure it wasn't turned off during servicing.
If it's not clicking on, you should test that you are getting voltage (12v-18v DC) to the solenoid. If you're not, check all wiring connections and make sure they're tight. If you still don't get power, you have either a problem with your control unit/humidistat, your DC power supply, or the control board on your furnace. You may need to call a HVAC technician at that point, depending on your comfort level/skill level in that regard.
Try removing the cover, and manually cycling on the controler switch? Does the solenoid click on, next to the humidifier (the unit with the water line running through it, with wires coming out of it)? If it does click on, is water running down the water pad? It doesn't necessarily drain water out of the unit when it's working correctly. All of the water SHOULD be getting evaporated into the air return duct.
If it's clicking on, but no water is running out, you should check the water supply saddle valve and make sure it wasn't turned off during servicing.
If it's not clicking on, you should test that you are getting voltage (12v-18v DC) to the solenoid. If you're not, check all wiring connections and make sure they're tight. If you still don't get power, you have either a problem with your control unit/humidistat, your DC power supply, or the control board on your furnace. You may need to call a HVAC technician at that point, depending on your comfort level/skill level in that regard.
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