Same problem as another post - freezer freezes great, but the refrigerator side doesn't stay cold. I followed Catriver's instructions (great post BTW, maintenance guy charged me $250 to replace the board), meaning I shorted the L1 to Test on the board and the defrost kicked right in and worked great. So it seems to defrost manually, but I don't think it's working automatically. Isn't it suppose to kick on every 6 hrs or so? Anyway, since the board seems to be fully functional, what's the next step...replacing the defrost thermostat? In case it's helpful, here's the full symptom description: Fridge: 1) Won't get cold (very slow flow of cold air via vent) 2) Ice forms in vent between fridge & freezer Freezer: 1) Ice Block in bottom of freezer & in drain pan under coils 2) Coils Iced over 3) Leaking under freezer door 4) Motor seems to be running almost constantly Past Actions: 1) As mentioned, the circuit board was replaced about a year ago by Maytag...solved problem for awhile 2) Manual defrost will solve problem for a short period of time, but the window seems to get smaller each time (currently about 4 days before fridge gets warm) 3) Last night I cleaned the drain pipe. There was a little gunk, but no major clog. Thanks for the help...GREAT SITE!!!
Bmurf, This adaptive defrost determined by compressor run time between defrost cycles. It could go up to 96 hours before defrost depending on differnt variables. With the unit running, a good frost on the evaportator and the tstat covered with frost or ice, unplug the refer. Pull the connector off the adaptive defrost board. On the harness, ohm from red to white/black stripe. If your tstat is good, you should read less than one ohm continuity. If it's bad, you probably will read around 240K ohms. This is the resistance of the resistor built into the tstat. On the live checks, plug in the refer. You are going to have 120VAC from Red to white. You also want to see 120V from white to white/black stripe. If you have that, the tstat is closed. If you have less than 120, say 96,100V. on white to red, that means you are dropping power through the 240K resistor built into the tstat. The board senses the tstat is open and no need to defrost. I hope this helps you out cat, thanks for the kind words on your post. Good luck, Catriver
Posted on Jul 27, 2007
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