Same problem as another post - freezer freezes great, but the refrigerator side doesn't stay cold. I followed Catriver's instructions (great post BTW, maintenance guy charged me $250 to replace the board), meaning I shorted the L1 to Test on the board and the defrost kicked right in and worked great.
So it seems to defrost manually, but I don't think it's working automatically. Isn't it suppose to kick on every 6 hrs or so? Anyway, since the board seems to be fully functional, what's the next step...replacing the defrost thermostat?
In case it's helpful, here's the full symptom description:
Fridge:
1) Won't get cold (very slow flow of cold air via vent)
2) Ice forms in vent between fridge & freezer
Freezer:
1) Ice Block in bottom of freezer & in drain pan under coils
2) Coils Iced over
3) Leaking under freezer door
4) Motor seems to be running almost constantly
Past Actions:
1) As mentioned, the circuit board was replaced about a year ago by Maytag...solved problem for awhile
2) Manual defrost will solve problem for a short period of time, but the window seems to get smaller each time (currently about 4 days before fridge gets warm)
3) Last night I cleaned the drain pipe. There was a little gunk, but no major clog.
Thanks for the help...GREAT SITE!!!
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878 Answers
Re:
Bmurf, This adaptive defrost determined by compressor run time between defrost cycles. It could go up to 96 hours before defrost depending on differnt variables. With the unit running, a good frost on the evaportator and the tstat covered with frost or ice, unplug the refer. Pull the connector off the adaptive defrost board. On the harness, ohm from red to white/black stripe. If your tstat is good, you should read less than one ohm continuity. If it's bad, you probably will read around 240K ohms. This is the resistance of the resistor built into the tstat. On the live checks, plug in the refer. You are going to have 120VAC from Red to white. You also want to see 120V from white to white/black stripe. If you have that, the tstat is closed. If you have less than 120, say 96,100V. on white to red, that means you are dropping power through the 240K resistor built into the tstat. The board senses the tstat is open and no need to defrost. I hope this helps you out cat, thanks for the kind words on your post. Good luck, Catriver
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you have a defrost problem either a bimetal thermostat, defrost timer or a heater. open doors and unplug unit for 2 days to let defrost it will work great for a week or so. not to costly to fix either way
defrost problem. advance defrost timer to defrost (till it shuts off) . remove freezer panel, check voltage and amps to heater,if heater is hot, replace timer, if heater is cold and no voltage, replace defrost limit switch. defrost all ice, carefully! with hair dryer, no poking with screwdriver.
defrost problems are caused by 3 things
bad:
1) defrost timer/ timer board
2) defrost heater (in freezer) or burnt wire going to the heater
3) bi-metal thermostat (round metal piece attached to the coils with at least 2 wires going to it)
a good technician can test components without the machine running. all you need is a simple $5 meter
any tech that gets angry, show him/her the door!
Sani, see if the evaporator fan is running. That would be the fan in the freezer compartment. It moves the cold air to the bottom. If that is ok, then you may have a defrost problem. Is the freezer panel in back all frosted over? If so, it's probabley a defrost issue. Check these things first and post back...Catriver.
Solo, firt make sure you do not have a build up of frost on the freezer inside panel. This would indicate a defrost problem. Your post states that the cooling problem is intermitant which leads me to believe that the automatic damper is at fault. It could have a build up of ice on it which is causing it to bind, or it could just be going bad. Your model does have the manual defrost timer which could be sticking at times, that is why I suggest checking the back freezer panel for frost buildup. Catriver..post back.
Madezmom, you have a defrost issue. If your model starts with 106 you more than likley have a bad defrost bi-metal, I will attach a picture of bad one. This sits on the evaporator in the freezer section behind the panel. You will have to remove the shelves and remove the back panel. Defrost the evaporator completely. The part number for the bi-metal is 2196155. See if yours is bulged like the one in the attached photo. If so, that's your problem..Catriver..post back.
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