TV makes "expanding and contracting" sound and switches "off" automatically
TV is only 1 month old. During this time there has been the occassional contracting and expanding sound coming from the rear of the TV. Tonight the screen turned off (to black screen) with the green "on" indicator light still alight and then within five seconds the screen returned to the TV program I was watching. This happened five times in fairly quick succession. I thought it could be the TV overheating as the gas heater was on. But the room was only 22 degrees. After the heater was turned off the TV functioned correctly. If the heater is the problem what is going to happen in summertime when the ambient temperature reaches 30 and somtimes 40 degrees. Philips technical support have not heard of this as a common fault. I seem to always purchase the dud. Has anyone had the same problem?
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Have you unplugged your tv for 1 hour and restart it mostly problem will be solved or gently tap on the sides of the tv to get out of the zoom like mode . How old is your tv ? Did you replace any component in your tv recently ?
All cell carriers that I've ever heard of are happy to keep you under contract - you just have to contact them to let them know at the end of the contract - if yours is not the type that automatically converts you to a "month to month" customer (no contract). This is not necessarily a bad thing! In most cases, you can keep using the device & service under the terms of your old contract. Things (cost, amount of talk / text / data) generally change only when you sign up as per the terms of a *new* agreement. This also when you are offered a subsidized price for a new device. If you're happy with your current device and would rather not have to go out of pocket at all to buy another - or if the amount of talk / text / data is is better under your existing plan - why sign up again? Continue as a month to month customer and you're free to sign a contract with them (or anyone else for that matter) at a time that YOU want whether due to lost or stolen device, better terms in a new contract being offered, etc..
Many carriers answer calls made from the cell phone that are placed to *611 (Star 6 1 1) and they should be able to help you navigate your current contract and new one - if needed. Otherwise, check your carrier's invoice, refill minutes card or website for contact telephone numbers or locations to learn about your contract.
The unit uses oil to create residual heat. The oil can contain small amounts of moisture and when the unit heats that moisture turns to steam, Steam has a great expansion ratio. When the steam condenses back to moisture it can conglomerate into large water droplets instead of being dispersed. This means that when it heats back up the steam expansion is more radical and makes noise. Unless the unit starts leaking oil, it is fine to continue using it.
I would check the wire leads off the windless to switch and from switch to battery (typically ground) During times of extreme load thoes thick wires heat up expand and contract and might loose a little contact or corrosion. Thoes windlesses are pretty bullet proof and very rarely have i seen one break. So I don't think its the winch itself. I would start there. Good luck Aloha
Hi This could be a dry solder joint, lack of solder during manufacter in combination with heat causes minute cracks in the solder around a component pin, heat can make the crack contract cutting off the circuit and when the joint cools enough it will expand and connect again until evetually it doesn't connect at all, so please contact your supplier to get it fixed under warranty.
Hope this helps.
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the popping noise you're talking about, could it just be your self-defroster in operation,sometimes if there a lot of ice and it operates a long time, there could be expansion noises,such as the refrigerator walls expanding/contracting from the heat of the defroster,if it's water you will hear a sizzling popping sound,nothing to fear dear
Try removing the back and re-seating the connectors, or wiggle them . Over time the cheap connectors on boards tend to expand and contract not making good connection. Intermittant problems are a bear to track down.
It is part of the waste gate just above the gas tank. It periodically checks for leaks and pressurizes and releases. Gives a ticking noise when it does this. Not a problem and GM is aware of this and said its normal on our cars.