CX3210 AND CX3211 OBLITERATED - THESE CERAMICS SEEM TO PLACED CLOSER THAN MAY BE GOOD DESIGN -HAVE A FEELING A SPARK GAP WAS BRIDGED BETWEEN THESE TWO CAPS.
BAD NEUTRAL CONNECTION FOUND AT WALL OUTLET EXACTLY WHEN PROBLEM OCCURRED - MAY BE POSSIBLE CONTRIBUTOR TO HV DISCHARGE BETWEEN CAPS ?
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The spark gap needs to have flow of gas across it for ignition to occur. The gas outlet holes at the point where the igniter sparks may be blocked, clean and inspect these for any blockages. Also check that the igniter spike is in the correct place. Careful evaluation of the position of the igniter in reference to the gas ring on the other rings may help you here. Good luck
Spark plug must be grounded against the engine to be checked. If it is truly a no/spark condition, then the next thing to check is the "dead-man" switch if it is on a pushmower and then check the ignition module air-gap. That is the distance in between the legs of the coil and the magnets in the flywheel. Different engine applications (you did not say) are set a few thousandths different but a good rule of thumb is closer is better. Set the air gap at .008"-012" or about the thickness of a standard sized business card. If this doesn't produce a spark, then the ignition module is possibly bad.
The air gap for the ignition coil core to flywheel is adjustable on some engines and the gap does vary.
On a Stihl, I used a matchbook cover first, then doubled it and got the engine to start.
That amounts to 8-10/1000ths (0.008-0.010") as measured with a digital caliper after-the-fact.
I'm troubleshooting another engine currently from a McCulloch Airstream IV that only has ~12 hours and no spark but the coil measures roughly as it should; around 1K Ohms.
Was surprised to find the company went bankrupt in '99.
Another one killed by Asians and fairly poor design.
believe are the two caps., beside the large H.V. transformer? Just replace the two capacitors and should be fine, I have this problem before. Now as far as open neutral there maybe other damage to the set.