Is this washing machine worth saving.. it suddenly stopped agitating, spinning or draining. /the tub moves freely, the timer keeps going through the cycles. The belts are fine. It has been very reliable!
Know this is an old post, but I am replying for any others out there. I have one of these I bought new in 1970 and still going. I had to replace the trans., tub seal, and bushing about 15 years ago. Got the trans from a "junker" I bought from a used appliance store for $10 and put a new seal and bushing ($24) on there. I also changed out the motor with the much newer one but it only lasted 1 year before giving out so I put the original back in. It has now been going for all these years faithfully (almost 50!!!!) without fail.
CAVEAT: If you are not comfortable working with 120VAC circuits, then DO NOT attempt anything noted below that involves electricity.
Your symptom is of a motor not turning the trans input shaft for some reason. First check the belts underneath and also see if you can remove them and turn the motor shaft and trans shaft manually. If so pull front panel using 2 screws at bottom on each side of panel, then remove plastic cover from over motor (may want to unplug unit and then plug back in once cover is removed) and turn timer to spin (black regular drain cycle) and turn on. Motor will not be turning as stated in problem/question. Check to see that all wiring is in good shape, not burned or loose and then test motor. This is a reversible 1 speed motor that uses a cent sw to pull out the start winding. In SPIN there should be power on the BLACK and BLUE and RED and YELLOW pairs connected to the switch mounted on the motor. Ck with a meter for ~120V on these terminals. If you get this voltage across both sets of terminals, then the motor is almost certainly bad. If you do NOT get proper voltage then your motor may well be OK, though it can be the motor and some other component(s) as well. To search for the culprit, you will need to follow the hot wire through the circuitry and jump (or ohm out) the lid switch and if switch is OK then into the timer (prime suspect at this point). If everything works OK with the lid switch jumped then replace or just permanently jump that switch. Otherwise, locate the 5 wires running down to the motor (Red, Blue/Green, Black, White, Yellow) using different agitate and spin settings by advancing timer (NOTE: TURN OFF BOTH HOT AND COLD WATER FAUCETS BEFORE ADVANCING THE TIMER OR YOU WILL GET WATER FILLING THE TUB) check for proper voltage on the same pairs (across blue and black and across red and yellow for SPIN and black and yellow and blue and red for agitate). If you also do not get proper voltage there then the final test will reveal if you have just a bad timer or also a bad motor. Apply voltage (line voltage ~120V) to the motor switch (after pulling wires from switch on top of motor) as follows: Hot wire to blue and black and neutral to red and yellow should put washer into agitate and hot wire to black and yellow with neutral to blue and red should cause washer to spin. If both are true than your motor is OK. Replace the timer using source info for motor below, check all wiring and you should be good to go.
If the motor tests bad then it must be replaced, so go to a good source for a junker (used app store or better appliance graveyard if you can find one in your area) and buy the whole thing for $25 or less AFTER testing the "junker" motor windings with an ohmmeter. DON'T buy a new or used motor on-line ($60-$250). For $100-$125 you can get a "new" working used washer from the same appliance place or for about $40 to $50 get a good working one on craigslist. Replace the entire motor assy with the one from the "junker" including the tensioner assy on the bottom of the motor. You will need 3/8" socket for tensioner removal, 3/16" hex wrench for the pulley underneath, and 5/16" nut driver to remove other wires and parts attached to motor. Simply install new motor using reverse of what you did taking it off. For most people (who don't want to work on a 50 year old washer to see how long they can keep it going) you will probably want to just get another used one from craigslist, but I love tinkering and will probably always keep this old Maytag going even if I have to adapt parts from other machines. Good luck!
Posted on Jan 14, 2019
Our Maytag A108 model has worked well for us for 35 years. I've been told that Maytag was bought out by Whirlpool in recent years. Based on the reviews I've been reading, I'm not very confident that any of the current makes and models are designed to last even 10 years. There are so many reviews wherein owners report of problems with makes and models recommended by Consumer Reports that I'm really concerned. I'm exploring the cost for parts to replace my transmission, since my agitator is no longer agitating.
Posted on Mar 04, 2013
I have the same model. Yours has lived a good life, and as ttech said, give it an honors funeral.
Mine is still working well, and is only used twice a week at the most. All I've ever replaced on it was a cracked water inlet, due to a bad winter one year. This has been a wonderful washer, and I'll think about buying a Maytag before buying anything else in the near future. My next washer will be a front loader.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
It sound like Transmission Problems,Bury it and give it a Decent Burial, Dont Forget to Give Thanx.....ttech
Posted on Jul 23, 2007
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agitator moves freely while machine is in the washing mode
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