Unit is dead i have power to control board but no out put need wiring diagram

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You can;t check the board out of the machine. Inside the control panel area should be what GE calls a mini manual and wiring diagram. Should be test procedures in that paper work. It should tell you where to test for voltage if the board is completely dead. If you had power, the board can be put into a test mode to check all the different parts and cycles. Hopefully that sheet of paper is still inside the control panel.

Here is a lot of information in this link:

Honeywell St9120c4057 Wiring Diagram Fan Control Board Wiring Diagram...

Hi, any time you remove the high limit wires the limit switch will show that it is open which starts the indoor blower motor. Your limit was good. It showed it was open on your code chart because the wires were removed. If you are blowing this 3 to 5 amp board fuse, its showing you have a dead short on the low voltage side of the furnace, not the high voltage such as the fan motor would run on. Make sure that the 18gauge thermostat wires coming in to the board are not skinned or have a bare spot touching metal which will cause this. Look it over good where it is pulled through to the board terminals. If it blows as soon as you put a new one in, yes indeed, dead short, 24 volt side. You may have to buy more fuses to find the problem, but any part or safety switch that is 24 volts need to be disconnected until you find the faulty part. Your board could be shorted. Kill the power to the unit. Draw a diagram of the stat wires so you know where they go back. Take them loose. If the fuse holds, the problem will be in the stat wire from there back to the thermostat, and can be the contactor coil shorted on the out door unit or thermostat. After you remove the wires, remove the 4- screws holding the board in. They are ( board ) hard to look at the back side, but work it around to get a look at the circuitry on the back for burned or blacked areas on the board. If there is, the board is the fault. I have seen this many times before. If it is, you may be able to get one at a appliance parts house. Take all model and serial, and board numbers with you. Just keep in mind it is a 24 volt part, control wiring toughing metal, stat, or the board its self. My bet its the control board. Please keep me updated on what you find, and remember to kill power when looking at the back of the board. If I have been of help to you on this, please be kind when rating me as I know you will. I will be here if you need more help.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Does it function at all? If not it's prob not the fuseable link. I'd put money that you have a bad contriol (the circuit board has shorted). I have the same model. Mine shut down during a wash cycle - totally dead. It has power but doesn't function. The wiring diagram (located down on your kick plate) explains how to test various components. Two things you can do when the unit has power but is dead - Turn off the power to the unit. Open the door and unscrew the six screws that hold the top of the dishwasher together. The front top control will now be loose.On the backside there is a gray cover. push the tabs back and remove this cover - make sure the power is shut off at the breaker). Under the cover you will see your circuit board and a bunch of wires. There is a 14 pin connector that connects the circuit board to the key pad. push the tabs back and lift out the circuit board. carefully unplug the 14 pin connector and leave it unplugged. Put your circuit board back in and install the gray cover over the controls - leaving the 14 pin connector unhooked. install the six screws - basically putting the thing totally back together. Leave the dishwasher door open and turn the breaker (power) back on. Count to five and close the door. If you have a bad key pad your dishwasher drain motor will cut on and run for 2 min. If the control is bad (the circuit board) nothing will happen. The control is fairly easy to replace - costs around $122 bucks for parts. Hope this helps!
Oh yeah, if you want to check the fuseable link it's the round thing on the circuit board - has two black wires going into it. MAKE SURE the power is turned off at the breaker before you mess with this.

check the wiring diagrams on the panels...

If I understand your post correctly....You state that you are hooking up a 240v heater and towards the end you speak of removing jumpers...W2 terminals..ect. It sounds to me your trying to us a 24v low voltage thermostat instead of a Line voltage thermostat.That's what I'd take a look at.

First change all the fuse and check whether it works or not, if it does not work than as per your finding the secondary transformer could be the issue, the secondary transformer tap down the voltage fro 230-240/110 to required control board voltage. the best thing if the unit is opened then the right problem can be found but as per your description either fuses are faulty or the secondary transformer.

You can find everything you need and diagrams at http://www3.sears.com/.  Just type in the model #.  There is no repair manual that I know of.  If you need help solving a problem once you have seen the wiring diagram let me know.

Not sure about the Neff brand, but in general you'd want to check for 110VAC power on the primary side of the low voltage transformer on the control panel / board. If that is present, check the secondary for voltage, about 12-30VAC. If the unit has a VFD type display, there will be a heater filament supply, usually around 2.5-6VAC. Also look for bad connecitons on the VFD. If those voltages are present, check connections on the board, look for bloated / bulging capacitors, shorted diodes, breaks in the board, etc. Also look for thermal cutouts and thermostats. If this doesn't fix it, can you take several photos of the inner parts and circuit boards?