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Re: plastic housing on c419 broken
Sorry that the parts list is in German, but at least you can look at the visual, see how they are put together and order the parts. Although this microphone has been discontinued, parts should still be available from AKG.
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It sounds like the drum has broken from the rear mount. This will chew up the outer shell. This is a very labor extensive job. The parts are expensive also. You will probably need a new outer shell and inner drum.
Is the plastic housing (Outer Tub) in good shape? If the old boot was ripped, It might be the spider is also broken. Can you move the inner tub by hand and see if it lifts upward? If so you might have to get a new one. I had the spider bracket in the rear of the inner tub break in 4 pieces and too expensive to weld. So I bought a new top loader.
You need to take all of the hardware that holds the liner up. Take the liner out slowly ,not to damage it. You will have to remove the material and or sponge by hand.(do not peel layers)A good fabric shop will have replacement material. Bring a piece of the old fabric with you to match color of fabric.3M does make a headliner glue sold at a parts house to replace material. Measure liner from front to back ,not side to side. What I am saying is like from the rearview mirror to the back glass. Add at least a foot or two more to measurement. You will have to cut out holes for the hardware after you glue it down to the shell. You will also have to roll the material over the sides and glue the backsides. What I am saying about this is there is no molding where the shell meets the rearview mirror so roll it and glue it to the backside of shell , do the same for the back glass area of the shell. Use care when spraying glue not to get glue on the fabric. When you roll the fabric over and glue it you can hold the fabric down with a folded piece of cardboard held with clothes pins .Replace shell about 8 hrs later. Do not do this on a rainy day ,make sure it is sunny or hot day . Also when you spray the glue spray the shell and the sponge side with glue but do not over saturate the sponge or board that it would seep through the material. Good Luck!
this is a lot easier said than done. the easiest way that i know and have done is gain access to the cable closest to the handle, this seems to be the most common place a cable breaks, the next would be at the latch itself. very rarely do the break in the middle. any way, gain access to the cable and cut it. once you have cut it peel off the plastic protective coating. after this is done it you should see the outer steel shell that houses the cable. most of these outer shells are not solid but more of a tight coil configuration. with a good pair of pliers you can "unravel" the outer shell to gain access to the inner cable. hold the outer cable with pliers and using another pair of pliers pull the inner cable and the hood latch should release. this is the easiest way to do it with out chewing your hands up
This could be an easy fix if the counter weight came loose from the top of the tub shell which is a common problem causing banging. Unplug the unit and pull the unit out from the wall disconnection the water hoses after turning of the water. Remove the back panel to inspect the counter weight, spider pulley and belt. If the counter weight is not brokenyou can reattach it to tub shell and retighten the bolts. If it is broke it is about $30.00 plus shipping. Inspect the spider pulley which is attached to the tub with the belt around it. If it is not broken, you can turn the pulley by hand to check the tub bearings for free movement. Make sure the belt is in good shape and attached to the motor spindle and spider pulley. If the spider pulley is broken you may have to order a new pulley. If you have to remove the spider pulley you may want to use a gear puller from an auto parts store to remove the pulley.If you turn the pulley by hand you should not hear scraping. If you do in could be the bearings or a screw is rubbing against the shell. If you have to replace the outer tub shell (approximately $300.00 for parts only). I would unbolt the bolts holding the shell and find where the tub or screw is rubbing so you do not have to replace the expensive shell.
If the inner basket has broken off on one of the three braces on the back side where it is welded to the main spindle shaft that goes through the outer shell and bearing, you will need to replace the spindle and probably the inner basket. Some come together, some can be bought seperately and bolted. Not sure which yours is. Most people go out and replace unit rather than attempt ths repair because of cost if done by a appliance business. It is a complete tear down, and part or parts are expensive.
If you grab the inner basket and try to move it side to side, it should be solid.. The whole tub assembly can move while your doing this, but the inner basket should be solid in the back bearing Just one idea..
I was able to take apart a VX8350 I have with a broken screen. I don't see any way to replace just the hinges with replacing the whole top part of the phone including the screen. The ribbon cable from the screen runs through the hinge part into the main assembly of the phone. It appears the cable can't be removed without cutting it.