Unit will not power up. No power light.

If this is a projection TV, as it seems to be one in the FIXYA category, you are correct. The power supply is good. The first thing to inspect will be the convergence IC or ICS. These are located on the signal board, mounted on one or two large heat sinks(this board will RF and rca connections attached to it). Check the solder on these pins. You may as well replace the IC or ICs and any low ohm one or two watt resistors (resistors may be 1 to 10 ohms in value). This would be my first concern if I had this TV in my possesion! Thanks for asking.

Once again, the power supply is good. The problem is in the signal board. The signal board has the RF and rca connections attached to it. Find the STK XXX-XXX IC or Ics (some have one, others have two). Replace these ICs and check the 1 or 2 watt low ohm resistors (1 to 10 ohms value) and replace as necessary! Wish this TV was in my possession! Thanks for asking.

Hey, I have seen the same problem in multiples of the Zoom processors; specially those of 505, 505 ii, G1FX, G2 and also, on a Korg (AX9000G) . I somewhere read these gears are designed to decay over time, not sure though.

However, the common symptoms of such issues are Flashing of a dot either at right or left corner, Not remembering which patch/effect it was at before getting turned off and starting over from A1 each time while powered up, Sudden cutting off or dropout of the sound while playing or strumming the guitar or whenever you strike your guitar strings, a sound like buffering comes and restart at once flashing A1, once or twice had shown up 'bt' at display etc. These are all I've heard of.

The reason for this is inappropriate power supply. This mostly happens due to electric voltage bumps and frequent changes of your home amperage and voltage, using inappropriate power supply, providing more current than 350 mili amps or crossing whatsoever ampere limit of your unit and, also, if you are a jerk enough like me who has put one end of the guitar cable at the processor input and that other end of the same cable at the processor output jack and accidentally powered the device on. (That created a chained loop at the audio amplification; eating up a huge amount of current suddenly and burnt the voltage controller of the device at once). My experience says the mosfet ic burns at first and then the resistor is burnt after a few days the mosfet ic dies.

The blinking is mostly for the damage at the internal voltage regulator mosfet ic for which the unit gets unbalanced voltage and tries to explain it by showing up that blinking. There is a 93.76854928 % chance that the resistor carrying the current to the input voltage pin for that voltage controller ic has to be burnt out due to regular and consecutive heating even upto 70 plus degrees for a long period. In most of the cases, the solution should be replacing the voltage controller IC/SMD and also, that burnt resistor right at the start of the circuit board, placed somewhere near the 9v dc jack.

Both the parts are really cheap, both the parts together might cost you around 1 or 2 USD only. Make sure you replace the exact item or the parts equivalent to the replacing dead items. For example, on a zoom 505 ii, the resistor may have been marked as R18 and equivalent to 22 ohms and the voltage regulator ic code is written as

29M33
31*1E

So, make sure to crack the parts' codes properly, if burnt out in case of resistor, check from image or video of the same product or circuit board and crack the color code of that exact parts to find the exact ohms. The soldering work is really easy or take them to someone skilled and they will fix ya. (Well, didn't mean like "they will google")
( XD )

Have a good day.

When you remove the rear cover you will see the large green board on the left side. Note the two large aluminum heatsinks with the fins? The 2 Convergence Ics STK392-120 are attached to that heat sink the 12 6.8 ohm resistors are at board location 3149-3160 they are all the 6.8 ohm 1watt metal film resistor located near the Heat sink which has the two ICs.

The resistor you see is a 2.2 ohm 2 watt resistor and is part of the convergence circuitry. I would replace R7011. 7012, 7013, 7014, 7015 & 7016 (all the same value) and the 2 STK392-110 Convergence ICs. This should fix your problem. You can find kits on-line for around $45 with the IC's and resistors together.

First, check which type of protect first.

Symptoms:
3 seconds (DC protect) OR immediately shut down (Over Current protect)

How to confirm?
1.Unplug the amp.
2.Remove the metal cover.
3.You will see a long vertically installed pre-amp board mounted next to those large power transistors fixed by 12 screws on a large aluminium heat sink.
4.Remove this long vertically installed board mounted by 2 screws.
5.With 2 screws removed, just pulling this board out and hold it with one hand.
6.Plug the amp and switch it on.
7.If your amp stays ON forever, the problem is from this long board.
8.If switch off at once, the problem is from power amp board.
Try the above- mentioned steps. If DC protect, write an email to me via searching you tube SR600 capacitor replacement. Don't be afraid.
So many people wrote to me.

If over-current protect do the
following steps
(O)unplug the amp.
(1)download DS-TX494 service manual.
(2)open the amp metal cover.
(3)measure 7 large white resistors resistance loacated next to power transistors mounted on a large heat sink with black probe touching the middle pin and red probe to first/left or third/right pin.
(4)If this 3 Pins large white colour 0.22ohm x 2 resistor is open with infinity ohms ,
(5)replace it and jot down this channel for example left surround faulty. Usually only 1 channel went faulty.
(5a)When the white resistor didn't burn, "2 channels" were damaged due to bad soldering joint of the large white resistor, however.
(5b)When this happened, time taken of shut-down due to over-current is 3 seconds NOT immediately.
(6)the two large power transistors next to this white resistor 0.22 ohms x2 should also be replaced.
(7)plug the amp
(8)switch it on
(9)if ok, troubleshooting get done
(10)if not ok
(11)replace ALL the components of this power amp channel.
(12)pre-amp section no need to check.
remember if not OK, the replaced 0.22ohm x 2 resistor and 2 power transistors maybe shorted again. Check them first. If OK, replace ALL Components in this channel except 0.22 ohm x 2 and 2 transistors. 0.22 ohm x 2 means left and middle pin 0.22 ohm as well as right and middle pin also 0.22 ohm that are 2 pieces of resistors with 0.22 ohm in a large white 3 pins resistor.
Remember sometimes the
0.22 ohm white resistor is normal. If so, use a digital multimeter to measure the be bias transistor voltage via multimeter diode test function. You can compare the normal value,580mV to 650mV with faulty one,3.2mV. And the CE resistance is 1.8ohms only instead of 3 Mega ohms.

It might be the issue on the board. I would recommend you to show it to a repairman

Low ohm resistors are open or poor solder connections on the bottom of a convergence IC.

You need to look at resistors in good light with magnifying glass. Bad ones may show as discolored or burnt.

The repair needs someone that has the schematic for the convergence cct, and can replace the burnt resistors or replace the whole convergence board.

http://calgaryconvergencerepair.weebly.com/index.html

If you are near Calgary, call me, if not, find someone that has done it before, preferably many times.

easyab

6 times, Diagnosis: LOW B OCP/OVP (Overcurrent/over voltage). Possible causes: +5 line is overloaded. (A, B boards), +5 line is shorted. (A, B boards). Symptoms of the problem: No picture.
http://www.somelifeblog.com/2007/08/sony-tv-led-blinking-codes-what-does-it.html

also found this

CHASSIS: AX1/AX1X/RA6/RA6A
MODEL: KDP51WS550, KDP57WS550, KDP65WS550, KP46WT500, KP46WT510, KP46WT520, KP51WS500, KP51WS510, KP57WS500, KP57WS510, KP57WS520, KP65WS500, KP65WS510
SUBJECT: Picture gets bright then shuts down. After repairs tech noticed a mark was created on all 3 CRT's.
CAUSE: Found Video Output was defective causing the failure of the 200v line. 200 volt line has two fuse resistors R7301 (10 ohm 1/4w) on the CB Board. R8225 (1 ohm 1/2w) on the D board. R8208 (0.47 ohm 1/2w) also on the D Board. All three resistors are in series. One or all 3 could be open. After replacing 2 resistors and Video Output IC set returned to normal operation. CRTs will need to be changed due to phosphor damage. On Models KDP-51WS550, KDP-57WS550, KDP-65WS550 CB Board resistor is R9335 10 ohm 1/4w. D Board resistor is R6509. NOTE: This resistor may be a jump wire according to the schematic. Models: KP-51WS520, KP-57WS520 These models have a fuse resistor on all 3 CRT Boards. CB R9335 10 ohm 1/4w CR R9110 10 ohm 1/4w CG R9211 10 ohm 1/4w On the D Board R6509 is a jumper wire according to the schematic.

What is the designation (the letters/numbers printed on the board right next to the part) of the part? If it is a cpacaitor then it is cesignated Cxxx, but I have a feeling you are looking at a VDR, or voltage dependant resistor that Sony loves using in their power supplies. A VDR will test completely open on an ohm meter and open on a cpaacitance meter, which means it is good. A VDR that shows resistance on an ohm meter is bad and will probably have a burned resistor (typically 10 ohms) next to it. A wise tech would NOT replace a VDR that measures open!