KENMORE ELITE HE5

YOU MAY WANT TO TEST YOUR DOOR SWITCH WITH AMULTI METER


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
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If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings OTHER WISE CHECK FOR A LOOSE WORN BELT

last on the list:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-tumble+repair.htm

Hello. I recommend that you replace the entire plug and cord with a new one. The one that shorted is one of the two hot wires. It could be that the plug was faulty or had a weak spot in it. Joe

I am having the same problem. I think there is a design problem. They have tried to fix mine 3 times (replacing the dryer with a new one on the first try!) My dryer is only years old. I'm so disappointed with Sears and Kenmore.

Check that there is 240 volt at the plug as sometimes a breaker will be weak on one side and only produce 120 volts which will let the drum spin but produce no heat

Washers n dryers usually require some balancing after a move to the new area, and when you lift the washer on a dolly, you lift it from the rear. Assuming you've already tipped the washer slighlty to one side, checked the bottom for which side has the most metal underneath. This is best done with 2 people. Do the same with the dryer. The braces are used to help balance or to keep from tipping when the machine was packed inside a large box.

Check that there is water coming from water supply, if not lines can be clogged or frozen.

If water is coming to the machine, but not entering into the drum, then it is a faulty inlet valve, or a faulty control, have parts tested and replaced.

try replacing the door strikes and catches part # 279570...possible door hinge issue but less likely

I have a Kenmore HE5 Steam: after a power failure last week, now when you turn the dryer on and push"start" the cycle stops emediately and flashes PF...