When i was hooking up the power cable to the amp, the wire touched the ground terminal and sparks were flying. There is still power to the, but no power to the subs. I think i found the problem. The two copper coils that are close together, one is loss and when i touched it ot the board there was smoke and the subs were trying to work, i think that is the problem. I want to know if it is repairable.
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If the key is in the ignition and turned on when installing the battery cables it can cause sparks. Make sure your hooking the cables up to the right terminals also. With the key out of the ignition there shouldn't be too much of a spark when hooking the battery cables up. If you're still getting really bad sparking with the key out and the cables on the correct terminals, then there is a dead short somewhere in the main electrical cables
If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
the remote cable may be grounded. Check the power wires and you should have a fuse near the battery so make sure its not blown. Also check for blown fuses on the amp.
your inline fuse wouldn't blow if there was just something wrong with the amp. the amp fuse would blow if that was the case. something is faulty with your wiring. you probably have the wires touching somewhere or are in the wrong terminals at the amp or on the wrong battery terminal. or your power wire is grounding out somewhere. its not the amp. its your wiring
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If neither is too low, the power supply in the amp is probably blown.
With the amp hooked up normally and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage), do you read 12v DC anywhere on the case of the amp (black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp)?
If there is no voltage on the case, confirm that you have 12v on the B+ and remote terminals of the amp (black probe on ground terminal of the amp).
You need to confirm that you have voltage on the B+ and ground terminals and have a good ground.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If all of that checks out, the amp probably has an internal fault (blown parts, broken connections...).
You must have inline fuses at the point where the wire taps off of the power source. If you're tapping off a wire that has no fuse (like the starter solenoid), you must insert a fuse.
When making the connection to the amp, there will be a spark initially. If you hold it on for a second, pull it off and then touch it again, there should be little to no spark because the capacitors in the amplifier would have charged when you made the initial contact. If there is an intense spark each time you touch it and the amp is not on (no remote voltage applied), the amp may be defective.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
if you have real old wires from the amp to the sub try getting new wires on it. check the little wires that go to the cone itself on the sub. sometimes they can manage to get pulled out of their terminals and make sure that thier touching the terminals on the correct spot
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