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Re: Unit cycles off but back on quickly. Does not remove...
It needs the Cover removed and take to the Local Car wash and clear the Front and Back out get all the Junk off of it Use Engine Cleaner first let soak then High Rinse Bring Home let sit outside for A Couple of Hours reassemble and She should Run like New ttech
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wow it seems you really have a lot of moisture , 1st i suggest you find and seal location of water entry second you might have to consider getting a second unit or a larger unit to work as your primary and save smaller unit for use as a back up
they are rated in Pints per hour the bigger the number the more water they pull out of air sounds as if your gonna need a 60 PPH unit or larger
Btw : 70%rh is considered the "normal" of the avg home
yours at 90 % rh is unhealthy for humans and will promote respatory mold growth and all its complications unit setting of 65% is telling me that unit is too small to handle amount of water you have
if thats where you run it at 40 i suspect it's overheating and shut off possibly broken now , one should never set a humidistat less than say 66%rh as a normal house is 70%rh and asking anything more of a home unit is just not possible if moisture is that much a problem try running two units about twenty feet apart , they will cycle more to cool down and will run longer , might even be more efficient than running one harder
It appears as if the water may not be flowing through the hose.
* When you use a hose the unit must be located near the drain. If the hose is to long the water will not flow freely and cause the water to back up in the hose triggering the bucket full.
* If the unit is lower or the hose runs up hill even the slightest incline will cause the water not to flow backing up to the machine
* Hose must remain flat and in a down hill flow to the drain if you are running a longer hose than recommended. If you are have a long distance to run the hose elevate the dehumidifieer by placing it on a stand, milk crate, anything that will hold the unit. Be sure it is large enough and strong enough to support the unit to prevent it from falling. This will help siphon the water from the unit and prevent any water to back up the unit.
* If your using an old hose make sure there are no kinks and water flows freely through the hose. Any kinks or type of pinch in the hose will cause the water to back up
I hope this helps resolve your issue. This is the most common mistake when using a hose.
Chef, you need to turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to OFF and unplug the unit from the wall outlet for 15 minutes. While you're waiting, remove the air intake filter and clean it, if necessary. After the 15 minutes has elapsed, plug the unit in, turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON and set the control to Manual Operation. Lower the humidity extraction level to 32% or 35% and allow the unit to run in that mode, rather than automatic. This will give you a good indication if moisture is being extracted or not.
If it is working as it should, you can leave it in manual timed mode (normally 2 or 4 hour segments). This way, cycle On and OFF as necessary, based on any rise in humidity above 35%.
I hope this helped you solve the problem. Please let me know. Thank you.
There are several things that can cause the problem you described. Most of which are easily remedied.
1. The humidity/moisture extraction level is set to high. Lower it to 35%
2, Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Remove and clean the filter.
3. Refrigerant coils on the back of the unit are dirty and need to be cleaned.
4. Not enough clear air space around the unit. Maintain at least a minimum of 12" of clear air space all around the unit.
5. Unit is operating in a room that has an ambient air temperature at floor level, of between 40 -60 degrees F. Most dehumidifiers don't work well between those temperatures. Raise the unit up off the floor on to something sturdy enough for the weight of the dehumidifier when the bucket is full.
The above are the top 5 things that can cause a dehumidifier not to work properly. Fortunately, none of the solutions require any major repair to the unit.
Hope this helped you to further troubleshoot and solve the problem.
When a humidifier is first placed into service depending on the environment you placed it in, it can take up to a week to actually shut off.
Think about this...
Q? Why did you buy the unit in the first place?
Ans. Area you want to use it in is damp.
So the NEW humidifier has to really work hard to remove moisture from everything in the space.
Furiniture, structure to include cement floors and walls. This can take a very very long time initially. If there is a sump pump in the basement the humidifier needs to be placed quite a distance from the sump area. If the structure foundation and walls are allowing water seepage into the basement it may NEVER shut off.
If it does not shut off after several days. Move the unit to a small room upstairs that you can place it in and close the door just to test to see if the unit will cycle on and off. If it cycles on and off in a small room you may want to inspect your basement foundation and check for plumbing problems.
My first thought is that there's not enough moisture/humidity in the air, for the setting you have the humidifier set on. The higher the setting or percentage (i.e. 60%) means that the level you want to maintain. Which may be find in the cod winter months. In the Hot summer months, you want as low a level of humidity as possible (i.e. 45%).
My second thought is that the air intake filter and the coolant coils need cleaning, since it has been used in 2 years. It's just sat around gathering dust and spiders.
And finally, the collection bucket, may not be inserted properly and when the unit starts up the vibration dislodges the bucket just enough, so that it's not making contact with the safety switch. Sometimes when this happens, the Full light indicator will come ON, even if the bucket is empty.
Hope this helps you to start troubleshooting the problem. Please let me know.
The drain hole within the unit is most likely plugged up with an accumulation of crud. (Common problem). Depending on the make/model, you may be able to access that drain hole by simply removing the collection bucket. If not, then unplug the unit and remove the housing to gain access to the internal drain.
My unit is a Fedders A7DH65B2A and your Maytag unit was made by Fedders and is just like mine w/ different label... I've purchased two of these units (one for me & one for my father-in-law) and they both quit pulling moisture from the air (but ran constantly) about 1 month past the 1yr warranty.
My unit also acted really strange one day when the problem was occurring - it flashed on & off erratically and wouldn't power off unless I pulled the power cord.
In short, I took it apart and found several issues and eventually figured out the chain of events that led to this:
1) The thermistor went bad and the unit could no longer sense when the evaporator coil started freezing up (normal situation that the unit should detect & then do a defrost cycle). As a result, the evaporator coil turned itself into a big chunk of ice (can see by removing the air filter and looking into that slot at the coil (looks like a radiator).
2) the big block of ice on the coil grew large enough to start making contact with part of the plastic housing above the evap coil that's used for the power control circuit board. The plastic in that area then got ice all over it and since it looks like a little tray, it will hold water (when the ice thaws) and then the power control board will be sitting in a puddle of water (or ice - either will cause malfuntions like not being able to turn the power off using the front panel switch).
3) the puddle of water in the power control board tray caused this circuit board to corrode (happens very quickly when the unit is plugged in since electricity accelerates this kind of thing...).
So... a poor quality thermistor (this straps to the bottom right side of the copper pipe that loops out & back in to the evap coil and has a wire coming out of if) caused premature defrost circuit failure. This caused a big block of ice to form where it shouldn't be. The ice caused condensation/moisture/ice to form on/under the power control circuit board and corroded the circuit board and caused erratic power control issues.
RepairClinic.com had a replacement sensor board (included all sensors - yes, the thermistor too...) so I purchased it (~$40) and used only the new thermistor off of it to plug into my original sensor board (and strapped it back to the evap coil w/ the chrome looking clip that was already there). Problem fixed! Well, almost... I did have to clean the corrosion off my power control board as well, but it survived luckily.
After doing this to mine, my father-in-laws unit experienced similar symptoms. I did the same fix to his and presto... fixed.
Cheap low quality thermistors on these units. I need to find a higher quality replacement thermistor before round 2 happens on each unit.