My Electric saw works intermittently

Check the switch, the cord and the outlet

I have the same saw.

Sorry but this question has to be asked, is the AC (Alternating Current) outlet working/ an live outlet? Had to ask.

If outlet is good move on to the next steps.

Take an ohm meter / continuity meter.

With the AC power cord unplugged from the AC wall outlet.

Place the two test leads from the meter onto the plug prongs .

With the switched closed/ON, you should get zero ohms (or very low, close to zero/ continuity).

In your case you probably will not have any continuity because it doesn't turn on.

Now comes the fun part trying to find the problem/ open connection.

Lots of possibilities.

1. The AC cord could be bad at the plug end.
   

2. The AC cord could be bad at the point entering the table saw.
   

3. The motor could be bad.
   

4. The brushes in the motor could be bad.
   

5. The field winding in the motor could be open/bad.
   

The plan is to ohm/continuity check the path of the power going to the motor, (both sides of wiring).

While meter leads are on the AC plug end, wiggle the strain relief ends. You have an intermittent connection.

TROUBLE: SAW WILL NOT START

PROBLEM 1. Power cord is not plugged in.

2. Fuse or circuit breaker tripped.

3. Cord damaged.

4. Burned out switch.

REMEDY 1. Plug saw in.

2. Replace fuse or reset tripped circuit breaker.

3. Have cord replaced by an Authorized Skil Service Center or Service Station.

4. Have switch replaced by an Authorized Skil Service Center or Service Station.

The power cord can get a break in it. Try moving it when this happens. Otherwise, the plug can fall out of the outlet. Sometimes the switch goes bad.

check to make sure that the tool didn't trip the circuit breaker --- make sure that you have voltage to the outlet.

c...

You reversed the black and white wires on what? Don't ever do that. One is the line and one is common. They are polarized for a reason.
Immediately stop using that outlet before you burn your house down. Switch the breaker off to that power circuit, then have a qualified electrician check it out.

There is a thermal fuse in series with the heating coils inside. You will have to disassemble it, find the fuse, take it to an electric supply house and get a replacement. Some soldering "may" be necessary.

You need an AC voltmeter to check things--measure across the switch contacts (switch off) for ~120 volts. Have someone press the switch while reading voltage--it should go to 0 volts (switch is good). Check for 120 volts at the motor connections (switch pressed--good). Check the motor brushes for damage or worn too short. The springs should appear bright brass colored and expand full length. If dark colored and collapsed, the springs need to be replaced. If no power from the power cord, look for a broken wire--usually at the plug end. A high load on the motor can cause the brush springs to overheat and collapse. Make sure the chain moves easily and is properly oiled. Make sure the air venting for the motor is not plugged with sawdust. Hope some of this helps!

Check the power cable. They could be broken or frayed and you are not getting enough power to it replace and then try to see if it works then. Make sure you buy the right size gauge for you machine

no fuse, you can checked the brush holder assy by poping the assy out & checked the bronze terminal if broken.if the holder are ok. check for continuity of the field coil main ac coil & brake coil, main are bigger wire the brake are smaller wire.

forgive me for stating the obvious, but you didn't say, have you checked the outlet for power coming in?