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Hi warie...I'm afraid that I cannot claim to be knowledgeable in this field, however, upon studying the User's Guide for your product, I think it might just simply have the Lock, or Child Lock engaged. Both of the issues are referenced on Pages 2 and 3 of your User's Guide, and again in the Troubleshooting Section, specifically on Page 27.
If your User's Guide has already walked through the pearly gates of manuals, you may download a copy by clicking on the URL below......good luck my friend
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The drawer may not be seated in the track correctly. If it is removable, remove it & replace it, making sure the rollers are in the track. Inspect the rollers themselves, looking for breaks or cracks. If this fails, the cause may be hidden & you will need a qualified technician to uncover the reason.
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After completing a cycle the top drawer feels like it will not open or the top of the drawer has fallen down. I've since forced it open but, now it feels like it will not close. I did not force it to close. How do I remedy this problem?
The power filter board at the base of the dishwasher (under the bottom drawer) has a fault which shuts power to top drawer. The drawer is tight because lid seal actualtor motors are not operting due to lack of power, Try not to push too hard as the lid seal will be damaged.
Needs a technician to fix it unless you are good at handling dishwasher repairs. This is a very difficult one to handle for the non professional. The power board is about $100 to buy,
Hello, The most typical problem with your dishwasher is going to the lid seal motors that raise and lower the seal.thegear on it gets stripped and it slips so lid doesn't fully close on the side where motor is bad,their is 2 motors one on left and one on the right if advisable to replace both of them. By pulling the pins on drawer sides and removing front panel,then releasing the tabs on drawer slide the drawer will come out so you can also inspect the seal for rips of tears in the rubber on it but,i found 50 motors to be the problem for every seal thats bad. To replace the motors on the upper drawer the lower drawer must also be removed so the wiring to the upper drawer lid motors can be connected to the control board in the back behind the lower drawer.
Make sure that the retaining tabs on either side of the drawer at the lower front are engaged properly. They sometimes don't positively engage and you will feel the difference when the drawer is pushed. Undo the tabs and re-engage them a couple of times to check. The drawer should run smoothly without resistance when they are engaged correctly. Check how the lower drawer moves to compare.
If the drawer is returning smoothly but feels like it's striking resistance towards the rear just before it's fully home, it's likely that the hoses are kinking/fouling behind the drawer and/or that the linkage support is broken.
If you have this older style white plastic linkage rods that hold the hoses, I would strongly recommend replacing it. It's the white plastic rod that has clamps attached to it with all the power, inlet and drainage hoses running through it.
You can get the 'retro fit linkage support' from an authorised F&P parts supplier. This is a retro fit that has specifically been designed to overcome the shortfalls of the original plastic linkage support. This consists of a metal rod and mounting plate with takes over the function of the plastic drainage support.
There are detailed instrucitons with the retro fit support which explains how to fit it. It was well under $100 when I bought one and worth the investment.
Good luck and remember always turn the power off before attempting any repairs.
As long as there is no plates or anything stopping it from closeing i will then say that there are 2 side rails that the draw glides in & out on,get down on the floor & check up underneath the draw for smooth gliding operation.also is it possible that a fork or peice of cutlery has gotten over the top & fallen down jambing the draw from closing.
the lids on dishdrawers are pulled down and sealed by lid activaters. there r two types, the screw type and the magnetic solonoid type. the reason your draw gets stuck is your lid activator is not releasing. there are 2 reasons for this 1st- 1 or both activators are faulty. 2nd the lid activator control board is faulty, which is located under the bottom drawer.pull the draw out and see if u can see if the lid is down on 1 side or both sides.please reply 4 more help.
Probably a blockage behind the drawer. If its an older model, the bracket that holds the hoses away from the drawer were apparently designed to fail and there is a retrofit replacement kit available if that is your problem.
Hey I dont know if you have this problem, but with mine the gasket seemed to be blocking the opening, so you could close it, but you had to shove a lot. The FP help line said to just unplug and replug in the unit. I did it and lo and behold it worked fine again. It did seem to leak a little bit the first time I reran it, but that seems to have gone away. Hope this helps
When the machine operates a lid comes down on the top of the drawer. This may be jamming.
On the side near the front at the bottom there are 2 plastic slotted screw heads, turn these to horozontal and pull out the "screws" this will release the drawer from the runners and you can lift off the drawer and possibly see whats jamming.
Hi! There are two small clips down in the front of each drawer, one on each side. You depress these clips/tabs which are attached to the drawer slides, and then the drawer can be lifted away from the rails. You need to be very careful not to damage the hose/wire harness guide behind the drawer. What may have happened is one of the "spring clips" on the rear of the rails has popped up when the drawer was open so the drawer will not have that "snap shut" feel you are used to when the drawer is almost all the way closed.