Converter output less than 6 volts

Hi,

Please re-read the setup instructions and make sure that you've connected the leads properly. If they've been placed backwards, then this might be the cause of your problem. If those procedures still result in battery drain, then you can take your setup down to homedepot and request that you be able to test a copy of their 7100 in order to see if you receive the same results.

Thank you.

with engine running you should be able to check alternator output on the battery. put your leads on the positive and negative post and see if it reads more then 12 volts DC. usually charges at 13-13.5 volts

If it has a nickel cadmium battery (NI-CAD) they tend to develop a memory when charged at a certain rate.For example: If you did not charge it fully ( at least 8-10 hours or whatever instructions noted) it can only go back to that level that you charged it at . On a scale from 1-10 , let's say the charge made it to 6 ,then you used it maybe until it died and then you put it back on the charger,it will then only go back to 6 or less because the undercharging cut half of the battery's life ,therefore causing it to die out quicker. It is possible your charger is also not performing.Look at the voltage output on shaver and check the output with a volt meter and see if it reaches the manufacturers rated output.If it does reach it then you have a bad battery and I don't know if you can replace that type of battery.I hope that this helped and good luck !

The Parallax 7155 converter should not require battery support for any 12 volt load amperage that is less than the maximum amperage capacity of the converter. A standard RV incandescent 12 volt lamp draws about 1.5 amperes for each bulb. With the battery disconnected and other 12 volt loads off, turn on lamps (not fixtures) and calculate the number of bulbs which can be turned on. If you run out of lamps, turn on vent fans etc. The idea here is to try to get to 55 amperes of DC load if possible without going over 55 amperes. At a sustained DC load of about 25-30 amperes or higher, the fans should cycle on continuously after about 5 -10 minutes. Lamp brightness should be normal and the measured voltage from the converter should be above 13 volts if under 55 amps of DC load. If the voltage drops with only a few lamps on, a converter issue would be likely.

Diagnostic tests an RV technician should make would be to:
1. Disconnect the battery system.
2. With the converter system powered on, measure the DC amperage with a DC ammeter capable of reading at least 60 amperes DC from the blue lead at the DC fuse panel terminal VCC.
3. Measure the DC voltage at terminal VCC and DC ground.
4. Record both readings.
At any DC load amperage less than 55 amps, the voltage should be above 13.0-13.2 volts DC. This method should take out all guesswork and confirm a DC converter section issue or not.

If this is a battery powered CD player,
we are talking mA not amps.....6 x 1.5volt batteries give you 9 volts
I would recommend something like this:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-AC-DC-Universal-Travel-Adapter-Input-110-220-Volt-7-Output-500mA-/251316939793?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 This will have more than enough power for the CD Player.

po700 code just means you have codes
P0351-IGNITION COIL #1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT

WHEN MONITORED
With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

SET CONDITION
Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground
- PCM

P0352-IGNITION COIL #2 PRIMARY CIRCUIT

TEST NOTE
This symptom is diagnosed using the test P0351-IGNITION COIL #1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT.

WHEN MONITORED
With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

SET CONDITION
Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground
- PCM
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its not chargeing but should still run

New altenators will put out up to 14.7 volts. When they put out less than 12.0 it's time to replace them. Batteries should hold at least 12.0 volts, they wont hold much more than that.12.6 maybe.
If they will not hold at least 12 then they need replaced. Batteries go bad because one of the cells inside will not take a charge anymore.

More then likely alternator is bad, check voltage at battery with volt meter, should be reading no less then 13 volts, if less bad alternator, check with engine running, if you have to jump start, remove cable before checking voltage at battery, that voltage will be alternator output voltage.

you need a voltage doubler circuit which feeds from your 6V DC system and converts it to AC and steps it up and converts it to 12V DC. This device might be difficult to find. OR use a 6Vdc power inverter and just use a 120volt AC fan if much easier to source out in your area.
You might want to try a 12VDC high speed fan and see if the 50% reduced speed is already sufficient for you.