Question about Moffat Ovens

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Oven won't turn on because someone played with timer

I turn on the temperature gauge on the over ... there's no heat ... How do I fix the clocks on the Moffat ~ Fiesta oven. the 4 burners on the oven work... someone played with the 3 clocks on the stove... how do I reset it so that my oven will work again.... it's not a gas stove

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Bee4Mee

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  • Contributor
  • 13 Answers

Try turning the mains supply off and it will probably reset everything.

Posted on Feb 02, 2018

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5 Related Answers

meowwl

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: burners on gas stove work but oven and broiler not working

Most ovens, unless they have an electric igniter (does it go tick tick tick when plugged in and turned on? If so, it has an electic ignition.) have a pilot light. In order to keep gas from flowing out, and to prevent a possible explosion when the pilot light has gotten put out, they have an electric thermocouple on them that shuts off the gas when it gets cold. Plug the cord back in, and relight your pilot light by holding the lighter (I recommend a fireplace match or bbq lighter, not a cigarette lighter to prevent singed knuckle hairs!) over the thermocouple for a couple of minutes.

Posted on Nov 19, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 25 Answers

SOURCE: Moffat Electric oven

check your breaker

Posted on Dec 12, 2007

Anonymous

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: KENMORE GAS STOVE OVEN LOWER BURNER WON'T WORK

Most likely a hot-surface ignitor has failed. If it doesn't consume enough current, the gas valve won't open. It's usually a fairly easy fix, once you gain access to the ignitor and have a new one to replace it with. Make sure you unplug the range...

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

seakish

  • 492 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Oven heating element and timer clock went

Try unplugging the oven and let sit for 10 min. This will reset the curcuit board and reboot the electronics. You may have to pull out the stove o get to the cord.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

Rob C

  • 547 Answers

SOURCE: oven doesn't work, stove does

If it's a Whirlpool or Kenmore oven (or one of several other brands that are made by Whirlpool) then this error code means:

F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC)


The system believes that the control board has failed and needs to be replaced.


This page has a list of diagnostic codes by brand and model number. You should check there to look up your particular brand to confirm what I just said.


Posted on Aug 04, 2009

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Nov 29, 2015 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

No display for the temperature. Oven turns on and heats a little but no way to set the temperature. Clock still displays and burners work great. What could it be?


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Jul 05, 2014 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

What could cause this ? We have a Super Capacity 465, ceramic top oven. Everything appears to work properly except, when turned OFF, the surface heating indicator light for the left back burner remains on...



after pics see articles





Stove will not turn off CHECK


Temperature Control Thermostat


If the oven won't turn off the oven thermostat is often the cause of the problem. The electrical contacts inside the oven thermostat can weld themselves together and then the oven won't turn off. If this happens, turn off power to the entire appliance at the household circuit breaker or fuse. The oven thermostat usually cannot be tested and must be replaced if defective.

Oven Control Board


The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn off it could be that one of the relays on the oven control board is shorted closed, providing voltage to the heating circuit. It can be dangerous if the oven won't turn off. Don't leave the oven unattended without turning off power to the oven.

Relay board:
Some ovens are equipped with a relay board. This circuit board has several relays which control the switching of electrical current to the oven heat source. If the oven won't turn off it may be that one or more of the relays on the relay board have failed. If this happens replace the relay board. The relays on the board are not sold separately. ALSO CHECK THE BAKE AND BROIL ELEMENT.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!





Oven clicks as if it is relighting almost constantly.

Old electric range ovens use a coil heating element called a resistive coil.
This is nothing more than an electrical wire encased in a sheath. They have flat black coils over rounded burner drip bowls that catch your drips and spills.
The newer glass-ceramic cook top style element produces heat that radiates through the glass top to the cookware above.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.


ELECTRIC OVENS:

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

: I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!





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Apr 29, 2014 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

1965 Moffat Electric Built-in oven - model #21K90. No manual and no information on any of the websites I've searched. There is power (oven light, warmer light, rotisserie, power rack), but clock and...


My father solved this one, those clocks were such a hassle, ours buzzed for days til he fixed it. It requires opening the control panel and bypassing the wiring that allows the clock to turn the oven on and off. Of course you lose this function. Is that the complete model number?

Oct 26, 2013 | Ovens

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We just moved into new flat with a whirlpool oven Model No: 6AKP524/1X. There's no manual. What are the 4 buttons on top/front for.


Unfortunately we are unable to offer assistance to those residing outside of the United States. Please visit http://www.whirlpool.com.au for assistance in your region.

Jun 09, 2017 | Whirlpool Ovens

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Oven and elements not working,


the oven and burner relay that supplies power to the bake/broil/top surface units is bad or the signal to latch this relay is missing from the control panel

Jun 03, 2012 | Moffat Ovens

1 Answer

Water coming out oven no steam and it will not get to tempeture


If your oven isn't reaching temperature you will not get steam. Turn the oven on and verify that the oven is calling for heat by looking in the temperature window next to the arrow that says "heat" or "on," if the set temperature is 5 degrees higher than the actual temperature there should be a small red dot next to the arrow. Then observe the burner, does the exhaust fan come on, can you see the ignitor glowing, does the burner light, does it stay lit or go out after 4 seconds? You could have a dirty flame sensor, the small rod with a wire attached to it at the top of the burner, remove the flame sensor and clean it with a cloth, wire brush, or emory cloth.

Jan 02, 2011 | Baxter OV300E Stainless Steel Electric...

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Moffat Stove with a self-cleaning oven. I would like to know how to clean the oven using the "self cleaning" feature


hi there! I have a moffat stove and hopefully these instructions help you.
First clear out the racks in your oven. Take them out and remove any excess chunks at the bottom.
Then close your oven door and lock it by pulling the lock latch.
Now looking at your oven knobs [not your burner knobs] turn both of them so they are both on the arrow knob [your oven knobs should have small pictures on them and both should have arrows]
Now you need to set the time so in the middle of your oven their should be a timer and one start and stop timer on top of each other. Both timers go in increments of half an hour. So if you are starting your self cleaner at 3 move the dial to 3 or if you are starting at 3:30 move the dial to one tick after 3. Once you set your start timer, you need to set your stop timer.
Setting your stop timer, it is recommended to set it for 3-5 hours. I set mine for 4 hours. So then set stop timer to time you want the cleaning to be. If you set your start timer at 3:30 put your stop timer at 7:30.
The oven will start cleaning according to the time you set. The oven will get very hot. I recommend to not used the burners as the temperature goes to 500 degrees! You will smell an odor and that is your oven cleaning.... Hope this helps...

Sep 13, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

OVEN TURNS ON BUT WONT HEAT UP.


Hi,
If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..

Oven Problems Electric2_bing.gif Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

Aug 25, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD305PD Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Burners and oven wont get hot and light wont come on


The input power is incorrect. The neutral connection may be missing

May 22, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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