Washer will not start, appears not to be getting power. I checked with my VOM, I see 117v from the AC line conditioner to the power distribution box. At the feed to the control panel I was expecting to see a low DC voltage and found 8v DC. As I was disconnecting my meter, I shocked myself, put my meter back on in AC mode and found 105v AC (from the distribution box to the control panel). Can that be right? I'm obviously no repair man, but I suspect a sensor somewhere is preventing the washer from starting. I've checked the door sensor, and it makes contact with the door shut. What am I missing, please advise. Thanks in advance.

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Sounds like a mismatched stat to unit that can't agrees and match up with each others signal voltages. VOM Time!

Are you meaning the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve??????

If yes .... you need to know if your W/P Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer really has a bad Water Inlet Solenoid Valve for the Hot and Cold water. This valve is where the Hot and Cold water hoses connect to the rear of your washer on the upper top left side in the rear as you are facing the washer. In my opinion it is highly unlikely that your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is bad....but it is possible. Sometimes the filter screen in the inlet(s) of the Hot & Cold water valve can be stopped up with dirt, sediments, etc. If you turn off the water faucets and remove the Hot & Cold water hoses from the washing machine... you will be able to see the screens...if they are stopped up you can remove them with a small screw driver and clean them and reinstall them.

Hook up your hoses and turn on your water supply Hot and Cold faucets.

Here is a quick test procedure that you can do to verify the operation of the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve.

Verify that your water hoses are hooked up and the water faucets (Hot & Cold) are turned on.

Unplug the washer's 120Volt AC power supply cord from the electrical plug on the wall.

(1) Remove the top cover...There will be three screws on rear area of the cover: Left - Middle -Right.
(2) Once the top cover is removed...you will be able to see the Water Inlet Solenoid Valve...just follow the Hot & Cold water hoses from the wall to your washer. Usually the water inlet solenoid has a blue plastic housing assembly with (2) separate push-on or pull-off quick disconnect electrical connectors. One connector pair provides 120volt AC to the Hot water solenoid and the other connector pair provides the 120volt AC to the Cold water solenoid.
(3) Remove the push on or pull off quick disconnect electrical connector to one of the water inlet solenoids..It does not matter which one at this point in time.
(4) You will need an electrical 120v AC Test Cord. You can make this from an old lamp AC power cord or and old 120v AC Extension Cord. You will need two alligator test jumpers or leads (Radio Shack has them). The end of the test cord that plugs into wall is not to be modified. The other end of the test cord will have to be modified in order to conduct this testing. Strip back the insulation to reveal the two leads that will carry the 120v AC power. You should have one black lead (120v AC HOT) and one white lead (120v AC Neutral). Connect (1) alligator test lead to the black lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary and connect (1) alligator test lead to the white lead and insulate with electrical tape as necessary You now have your 120v AC Test Cord ready. If you have a VOM test meter..you can connect the VOM meter to the two remaining alligator test leads. Have your VOM test meter set for AC Volts and on a scale that will measure 120v AC. Plug in your test cord to the 120V AC wall power. If everything is OK your meter should read approximately 120 Volts AC.

(5) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from the wall power.

(6) Connect your 120v AC Test Cord to your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve electrical terminals.
See Step (3).

(7) Plug your 120v AC Test Cord into wall power. If the water solenoid valve is good you should hear water surging thru the water solenoid valve. If you do not hear the water running thru the valve you can verify if the 120v AC is getting to the valve with your VOM. It should read 120v AC. If it does read 120Volts AC at the terminals of the valve and you do not hear the water then the valve is probably defective: Either stuck shut and won't open or the solenoid coil is open (Bad).

(8) Unplug your 120v AC Test Cord from wall power.

(9) Disconnect your (2) alligator test leads from the solenoid valve and re-install the electrical push on connectors that was disconnected in Step (3)

(10) You can now repeat this test on the other side of the Water Solenoid Valve (See Step 3).

(11) If both sides of the Water Solenoid Valve check out good...then your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good. If it does not check out then replace it.

(12) If your Water Inlet Solenoid Valve is good...then ....unfortunately, there is a good chance that the CCU module is bad. The CCU module is in effect a computer control unit and controls the overall operation of the washer. The CCU module will cost approximately $150.00

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/henry_239f63a136de60f0

Won't Power Up

• 120VAC electrical supply.

Check voltage supply to washer.

• Open AC cord.

Check for voltage at the power cord connection to the line filter.

• Line filter open.

Check voltage into and out of line filter.

• Machine control board open.

With the washer off but connected to the AC outlet, measure the AC voltage between Pins 4 and 2 at connector P16.

Step 1: Unplug the machine

Step 2: If cleaning doesn't help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to make sure they're tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch is in alignment.Step 3: Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailed here. Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.Step 4: If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was connected

Was the coil cleaned or just the drain pan and line.

Do you have an amp meter? and volt meter. Are you sure that the compressor is getting power? The click may simply be a relay closing but no power. Check both sided of the relay. You will need to trace the power and make sure that the compressor is getting power. Then check the amps to see how much power it's pulling.

unit has to be configurated when you replace board or it wont work. nyc appliance repair can repair it for you.

Chack size of wire. Should be at least number 10 wire. Check loose connections. Call power company to check your voltage. This time of year in different parts of the country they have brownouts which is a voltage drop becaus of the load on the lines. Have power checked. Rus

THIS IS THE ONLY THING YOU CAN DO
Check that the unit is plugged into a working outlet and for
blown fuses.

This must be done by a THECHNICIAN SPETIALIST

Unplug washer or disconnect power.
Check continuity of line cord and line fi lter.
Check harness connections to CCU.

Plug in washer or reconnect power.
Check the touch-pad/LED assembly by selecting different
cycles and changing the modifi ers and options available to
confi rm the touch-pad/LED is responding.
Unplug the harness to UI and check with a DVM or VOM on
Connector UIP3 if correct voltage is present.
Pin 1: -5V
Pin 2: 0V (connection to Line or neutral is present in
normal operation).
Pin 3: -12V
If voltage not present and CCU is powered correctly (line
cord and linefi lter has continuity) the CCU is broken.
Disassemble the UI and check harness to UI and
Interconnection on UI between Center and Right Board.


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