Question about Olympus FE-310 Digital Camera
Hello, i bought my Olympus FE-310 Camera Least year, but everytime i try to turn the camera on it says batteries are dead, so i bought new batteries and the promblem still continued with different brands of batteries. The Camera is not even a year old, and i've this problem over a month thinking it would fix its own problem. Now i have no camera that will work and seriously this is ridiculous! Any tips that might help?
I have the same model and I sort of took a page out of Solution #2.
I don't have electronic technician experience so I took one main insight: The Poor Design of the Conduction in the bottom cover.
Here's what I did: I took some Copper Wire (mine came from the wire you use to hang paintings) and some Aluminum Foil.
Next I wrapped the Copper Wire with the Foil. The piece was roughly slightly bigger than 1/2 of a Postage Stamp.
Then I inserted this metal square over the batteries and closed the cover.
I found that I could take more shots without the camera saying Battery Empty.
See if this works. So far it's touchy but it's been taking more photos than before.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
I have an FE-310, and had nothing but problems with battery life also. I tried a number of different branded rechargables with no success. I'm currently using the SANYO Eneloop batteries. Being an electronics technician by trade, it got the better of me, so I worked out the problem. The problem is in the battery closing flap on the bottom, it has poor electrical conduction to the batteries, and the voltage from the 2 batteries in series drops from 2.9V to 1.7V on turnon as a result. The camera seems to use a lot of current on turnon and on some other functions like taking a photo. The fix is to disassemble the unit an install a small capacitor across the battery terminals. I used a surface mount 2.2 uF 10V capacitor, which just fit between the two batteries up against the front case. I can now get over 500 shots without getting the red battery symbol. It's a bit tricky, but most technicians should be able to do it.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
Mine does the same all the time. I usually turn it off, take out the batteries.. put them back in and turn it on again.. it used to work that way but recently after my rechargeable batteries got stolen i started using regular ones.. now everytime i put in batteries rechargeable or not.. it doesnt even turn on..
i checked the manual of the camera and in the batteries section it recommends alkaline batteries and panasonic oxyride batteries
i searched up oxyride batteries and learned that they are double the power of regular alkaline rechargeable batteries..ive read customer reviews on them and everyone says that oxyride batteries are best for cameras like the FE 310 that die out quickly.. i know that best buy and future shop dont have them.. appearantly target and walgreens do.. i havent checked yet but if they work ill let you know...
in the meantime, search them up, see reviews and learn for yourself what theyre like
once again theyre the Panasonic Oxyride batteries
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
Had the same problem and it was driving me crazy. I searched online and called the store and they didn't know either. Then I looked in the camera manual booklet and it said to NOT use Lithium batteries (I was using Energizer Lithium because the store recommended it to last longer). As soon as I took them out and replaced the AA batteries with regular Energizer Alkaline batteries, the camera worked perfectly.
Posted on Mar 13, 2010
I have had the same issue when using rechargeable batteries. I find that if I use Duracell Procell, or some other "high capacity" battery the problem is resolved.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Every time the Olympus FE-310 is turned on it says the batteries are dead and the lens gets stuck in the out position. The two AA Eveready Super Heavy Duty batteries were new and showed full scale "good" on the battery tester.
I googled the problem and adjusted the battery tabs as on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97yJX4dYmSg. Gives better battery contact pressure but didn't help.
Another web fix was to put a capacitor across the battery terminals. I tried two 330uF 6v tantalums, but didn't help.
I connected a variable power supply set to 3.0 volts in place of the battery and the camera works fine. The battery drain is high at 450mA, dropping to 350mA when the display goes off. Pressing the shutter half way it's 750mA, and 500mA zooming. 200mA in 'guide" position. A web review site on FE-310 says "short battery life".
The batteries I was using can't supply enough power due to high internal resistance.
Fitted long life Alkaline batteries and the camera works okay.
Lithium batteries are more expensive but claim 6 times more life than alkaline. Both alkaline and lithium are suitable at 1.5 volts.
Nickel MH batteries are not suitable as they give only 1.2 volts and my camera doesn't work on 2.4 volts, ie 2x1.2v.
The manual suggests alkaline or Oxyride batteries- Haven't tried Oxyride.
Setting power save "on" in the camera menu helps battery life, as does turning the camera off as soon as you finish using it.
Posted on Jun 30, 2011
After wasting many hours searching for someone that had the recommended Panasonic 1.7v batteries in stock (versus the standard 1.5v battery found everywhere) and trying a couple of suggestions to improve the battery / terminal contact, I decided on trying the solution provided by hellojaeson (above), with very slight modification.
First I just placed the capacitor across the terminals and closed the battery door. It increased my shots per battery from about 10 to about 50. (Not great, but probably because the connection wasn't even as good as a 'cold solder'.) But it was enough of an improvement, and as the battery door never closed properly with this 'fix', I decided to go with soldering. Afterwards, I went through two battery sets in testing. Both times I got in excess of 300 images, with flash on all photos and zooming in and out while the flash charged!
Accessing the terminals was easy. Just remember, it is the thin front panel of the camera that comes off (after removing 6 screws). Facing the lens, the 4 long screws need to be returned to the right side and bottom of the camera. The 2 short screws need to be returned to the left of the camera. Measure and clip the wires on the capacitor. Have a hot iron. (Initially I didn't have it hot enough and singed the plastic trying to get a good join. Hotter for a shorter period makes a better solder and won't melt the plastic.) Tin the terminals. Grip your capacitor wire with needle nose pliers, hemostats or some other heat-sink when soldering. Do it. (Mine is far from a pretty piece of work, but functionally it is perfect - and you can't see my goofs once the face plate is back on.)
I ordered the capacitors from Talon Electronics. I got Axial, instead of Surface Mount, with the same specifications hellojaeson provided. A quantity of five, Item Number TNC0019, 2.2uF 10V Molded Axial Tantalum Capacitors, cost me $7.23. That included shipping (they were .25¢ each). I ordered through www.talonix.com.
Posted on Dec 31, 2011
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