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KitchenAid Refrigerator 42 in counter depth freezer problems.
Model number KSSSS42QDW05. Replaced the auto defrost thermostat,which was rattling, and it delayed the freezing problem however it's still there and the freezer needs to be completely defrosted every few days. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Thanks for your time.
Re: KitchenAid Refrigerator 42 in counter depth freezer...
It sounds like the defrost timer may be bad,or you might want to ohm out the heater itself. And the only othe part is the terminator witch sounds like you replaced that allready. I would check the heater and if that is good replace the timer itself. Hope this helps
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Causes of ice build up on coils:
Not enough freon (leak).
Coil defrost heater not working (Coils on all freezers freeze up, but you should not notice).
Coil defrost timer not working.
Compressor thermostat not working (or end fell out of proper location).
:o).
If the freezer side is working and the refrigerator is not, its either your evaporator fan motor in the freezer side isn't running, or a defrost system problem. Open the freezer door to listen for the fan, and at the same time look to see if you have a build of ice on the back freezer wall. If you do, there is no circulation from the freezer side to cool the ref. The defrost system consist of a defrost timer, defrost thermostat and defrost heaters. The heaters rarely go out, so if you have to change the timer change the defrost thermostat as well since its a cheap part anyway. timer part number is 2188159 and the thermostat part number is 2196155.(called a bi-metal thermostat.)
Hello there: Here is a few things to check to make sure the referigerator is working properly. The first thing to check is the overall internal
refrigerator temperature (see the Appliance Accessories section for a
refrigerator/freezer thermometer). The proper temperature should be
between 35 and 42 degrees. Here are some things to try:If your refrigerator temperature is closer to 35
degrees, try turning the temperature up slightly.If you find that the temperature varies a lot from the
top shelf to the bottom (where it is coldest), try putting produce and
other sensitive products on a higher shelf. If the temperature is too low and you can't make it
warmer by adjusting the thermostat, you probably have a defective
thermostat. If so, you need to replace it, because they cannot be
repaired. Other possible problems are a leak in the sealed (refrigerant)
system, cold air migration (in side-by-side models) or a defective air
damper. These problems can be quite difficult to locate and correct, we
recommend you contact a qualified appliance repair technician. If the tube or channel is clogged or obstructed,
the water backs up and leaks into the inside of the refrigerator
compartment. Then the water builds up at the bottom, inside of the
refrigerator. When the water has built up for a time it may spill out of
the front of the door opening. To fix this problem, clear the drain
tube or channel and allow the defrost water to flow down to the drain
pan. The refrigerator never cycles offThe thermostat cycles the refrigerator on and off.
The refrigerator normally runs as long as the temperature inside the
refrigerator is higher than the set temperature. If the temperature
inside the refrigerator is cold enough and the thermostat still does not
cycle off, the thermostat may be defective. If so, you need to replace
it, because it cannot be repaired. If the thermostat is not defective,
you may have a problem with the sealed (refrigerant) system,
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DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle. If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer. If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires
plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater
comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced. The defrost heateris
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode. If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running.If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle. If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your
model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and
search for defrost components to find your parts.
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp . OR .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the
timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
How to check
everything http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
One is the coldest. Post a model number and I may can help more. If it's a manual defrost then defrost it. If it's auto defrost- If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In
most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board.
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
How to check stuff> http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
if you have frost build up on rear wall of freezer section then your unit is not going through defrost. its either defrost heater, defrost thermostat (which are both located on evaporator) or defrost timer
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