Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
take all the bottom shelves and baskets out of the freezer. look at the back wall of the freezer. youll see a block of ice in a metal pan looking part at the bottom of the rear panel. there is a hole in the bottom of that pan. thats the defrost drain. its clogged. use a hair dryer to get all the ice out then use hot water to flush out the drain hole.
Posted on Nov 29, 2007
It sure sounds like a compressor problem to me. The buzzing sound is the compressor trying to start followed by a click which would be the overload protector tripping.
Posted on May 30, 2008
You may be having a freon issue. Read some more info about this here. I type the longer version on my site. There are also factory service manuals to that may be helpful.
Posted on Nov 25, 2008
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:
Step 1: Unplug the refrigerator.
Step 2: Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.
Step 3: Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.
Step 4: Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.
To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
SOURCE: cold freezer/warm refrigerator
Same problem with Frigidaire Gallery model#GLRT182SAW5 (dated 2002 on back of case)
Vents were blocked with ice. Vents (from top compartment to lower) located behind light. You can check by poking a chopstick up the (2) holes; be careful not to hit fan blades.
- took freezer coil cover off in back; checked that defrost heater element was working (marked and rotated the timer in the hole next to light); checked that fan working. Found ice in the vents and defrost drip area. Got it out with hair dryer.
- cleaned compressor coils in back (check fan is rotating; also tweaked some of the compressor tubing bends to make them more smooth - read somewhere about a manufacturing defect ...); blew out drip tube from defroster while down there.
- Set the freezer control to WARM and the refrig control to COLD (THIS SHOULD IMPROVE AIR FLOW FROM TOP TO BOTTOM).
- Put thermometers in top and bottom. Checked that refrigerator cycles (not running continuously). Checked that cold air is coming down from (2) vents behind light.
OK: so far, so good. Lower compartment is 40 or under. Top is under 18.
CONCLUSION: Suspect marginal design. Had problems with another similar model where defroster ice doesn't drain correctly, pools and refreezes. Leading to blocked vents as well as blocked defroster drain and similar problem including dripping water from top to bottom and warm bottom.
MAYBE KEEPING THE FREEZER CONTROL AT WARM GETS AROUND THE PROBLEM?? ANYWAY, ITS WORKING FOR ME FOR NOW !!
Posted on Dec 13, 2008
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