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We have a different model Samsung, and I've heard a vibrating or buzzing noise twice. First, if the water filter isn't an exact fit (even Samsung's filters rattle), it will rattle. Second, if either of the ice makers gets stuck or jammed, it can make a vibrating noise. If our freezer drawer isn't making a good seal, ice will build up under the drawer or in the slides. Ours makes more of a humming noise, when this happens. Other areas to check: something stuck in the runner of your drawers or shelves (if yours pull out). There are also vents that draw air in and out of the cooling unit, and things in front of them may vibrate or rattle, too.
It's freezer fan hitting with your bin drawer when it's over ice formed behind the freezer. It's due to malfunction of defrosting. Keep 5 degree thermostat setting. And check thermostat by turning counter clock wise. If shuts off the fridge, it's working. If not replace thermostat. Check defrost timer set in proper setting. Once defrost cycle is good, no banging sound will be there. Thanks.
Whirlpool and KitchenAid - press the light switch 5 times within 10 seconds.
NOTE: If the fridge has a filter button, press and hold it for 5-10 seconds.
Changing the water filter should not cause the water and ice in door to not work. The actual freezer door switch will cause this problem. When the door is open ice and water in door are disabled. The door switch is a 3 contact switch. One contact is common, one turns the light on / off and one disables / enables ice and water in door. Manually depressing the door switch in the door fold hinge area should enable the water in door function. Do NOT test the ice function. If after you depress the light / door switch the light does not go out and the water in door does not work then the door switch has failed. The door switch is released from the cabinet by sliding either a putty knife or a knife blade along one side to unlock the locking tab. If the switch only has 2 terminals you have removed the wrong door switch. Check the other door.
If your refrigerator has the wiring harness on the bottom of the door hinge there is the possibility that during the water filter change the connection of the door wiring connectors was loosened or broken. Just check to make sure that there is not a harness on the bottom of the door hinge. If there is a harness on the bottom of the door hinge make sure the connectors are connected.
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Okay, I fixed it for now. The design for this bottom freezer drawer is not good. What happened was most likely that my son slammed the door, and it bounced and was slightly open. Overnight, ice started to form all over the compartment, including inside the drawer guides. Some ice was probably obstructing the drawer glide from sliding shut.
What I did, not thinking this was the solution, was to prop chairs against the drawer to close it while I searched for answers on the Internet. In the meantime, some of this ice must have refrozen in the closed position (due to the weight of the chairs). When I went to check it later, I had a little trouble opening the drawer. I gave it a hard yank and some small frost flew off, as I opened the drawer.
It was not easy sliding it due to the frost. I then moved it out and in until it felt smooth, and finally closed the drawer and it stayed in the shut position.
Kids are instructed to close the drawer gently and visually check that it is sealed. There is also an air passage between the refrigerator unit and the freezer so that when you close the double french doors, some air pushed to the freezer section and momentarily pops the drawer open. You should make sure that the drawer closes before leaving the kitchen. If you are on vacation, prop chairs to make sure both the freezer drawer and the french doors stay closed. This is important if you're in an earthquake area as a small tremor could open the doors and you'll get a fire when the lights stay on and burn through the wiring (as others have noted).
if you have a french door (also known as bottom mount, freezer on bottom) and your fridge sections(cold air blows from freezer to refrig) is not cooling try this
1. ensure you hear the fan running, its it not, thats it(most likely fan motor IF fan is running check these things 1. ensure refrig section light shuts off by holding down the switch 2. ensure door shuts 3. clean conderser coils (usually accessed from front through base grille) 4. check for icing in vents, freezer section contain them at top or back, and for a bottom mount the refrig sections vents are under your BIG drawer. if iced try a hair dryer from distance. or empty food into another fridge unplug open doors, and plug back in two days later this should defrost all ice build up
Our 550 bottom freezer drawer froze shut earlier this week and the motor made an unusual sound, like it was working too hard. Two of us eventually were able to open the drawer to find that it had frozen shut due to a leak which filled the ice tray solid and then adhered to the actual door, freezing it shut.
We emptied the fridge and freezer, turned the control dials down to 0, but neither the motor nor the light would go off. We finally killed the circuit breaker to get the appliance to shut down.
It's cleaned and defrosted and we noticed that the gasket has torn in three places, two on the fridge door and one on the freezer door. The freezer door could be from our tugging, but the refrigerator door is normal wear and tear. We filled the tears with some kind of putty and when it is dry we will start everything up again.
This is not the first problem of this nature we have experienced with our subzero 550, but it is the most dramatic. Each previous time we have called a repair man out and he has been unable to fix it.